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It"s Hydrofluoric Acid (sometimes referred to as "flesh eating acid"

Hydrafloric (sp?) acid... used for flash glass.. nasty stuff.. hard to get.. needs careful handling and ventilation.. works well

Glass to glass.. use UV adhesive

most glass taken from the same sheet will fuse together with good success.. having said that you will likely experience devit from Spectrum especially at the 1500F temp. If you Superspray before fusing this will eliminate that problem. Spectrum "96" was formulated to reduce devit. as well ...

Thanks Don for the explanation.. it helps us to understand your ART. Congratulations it's a fine piece! Thanks for sharing.

Don.. superb workmanship.. I'm wondering what the story is behind this piece.. I find the red/white outer border rather jarring but maybe that has something to do with the tractor/construction theme??

Wissmach... not much in variety of opals that I can see!

To "Judd".. pretty insensitive comments to this news!! I hope you find yourself happy flattening bottles.

It looks like you need new elements. With your recent relay replacement, new elements will make it like a new kiln....other than your controller there is not much else to worry about!

The original post here is more than 1 year old. let us hope the original author has found her stride and moved forward with confidence! With time, age, and experience, comes acceptance of your own skills and worth. I'm at the point now that if someone doesn't like my work then I figure there is some...

GE Silicone 2 will do the job well. I have outside installations now 15yrs old.... outside 4 seasons with NO failures!

You can easily score and break 6mm glass in strips. Circles can also be done in the normal fashion... the secret is you should (must) use the breaking pliers described by Marty for thick glass. They are available from Bullseye.

You are going to have to be there to watch it from 1100F and up.

If you have stress remaining from your fusing you may experience breaking the piece when you reheat for slumping!

I've been doing thick work (1 1/2" approx.) for several years and have always followed the Bullseye schedules for thick work as Brad suggested. Never had any failures with "90" or "96" pieces.

Years ago I did this same experiment.... same results as Marty

The price of a finished product always has to include the cost of materials to make plus all the other factors. Once you start paying more for your glass it only makes sense to raise the price accordingly. When and if the material costs normalize...then products made should likewise be adjusted. Abs...

You did not say at what temp. you opened the kiln and peeked. This can undo all the anneal depending where it occurred!

Trying to slump shallow and deeper shapes as well as draping all in same firing is asking for failure. The best way to control what's happening in your kiln is to forget about mass production and program each firing to best suit each individual piece. Quality over quantity!

Just received an email from Urob. outlining their approach to this. It's probably posted on their website if your interested.