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Hello again, 10 years after, sounds like a band name.( Speaking of names, still can't help speed-reading your name as "the animal all over.") Alumina hydrate is my favourite over kiln wash. I've only used Thinfire once and it didn't do anything the AH didn't do; Alumina Hydrate, AKA Alumin...

Sandblasting would be the easiest method if you're determined to use this piece of glass. The sandblasted finish should go relatively clear at firing temperature in the kiln. Scraping would be the last resort. I tried it once a long time ago when I needed to remove a tiny bit and didn't want to get ...

Michael, just saw this old post. Did you ever try one out, if so what were the results?

I couldn't read the characters so can't tell where to look it up.

Congratulations Havi. That must be very satisfying .

Thanks for the detailed reply, Terry. I just use a gentle fan doing leaded glass and can easily position one to draw any kiln fumes to an open window. We don't have any winter to speak of so an open window any time of year is no problem. Thanks again for the info.

That's excellent news. Guess the main issue is removing the lead fumes while the kiln is firing? Do you use an extractor fan or a fume hood?

Thank you, Terry. I take it those numbers are Celsius?

Fahrenheit would be too easy.

Hi Terry, What temperature do you then fire the glass, please?

Hi Havi, will we see a photo??

Agree, jim. I, too, miss very much the days when one could log on and read twenty or so new posts, look at lots of photos and there were always questions looking for answers, for which I was happy to contribute answers, If I could. I also learned so much from other members on here. (Tried to post a ...

No Kevin. Pricing was never discussed. I was already supporting myself comfortably with architectural glass, properly priced, and was never tempted to lower a quote. My only regret was that I hadn't done any fusing before we took the class with Brock so didn't come prepared with a lot of questions. ...

Sorry to here that. It was Brock who gave my partner and me our first fusing instruction. We were the only two in the class so got lots of generously-shared individual help. He was a font of knowledge on WGB as well, as many will remember. I am the proud owner of one of his limited edition 'Gold Pan...

Bonnie, depending where you live there might be a company in town that does silvering (mirror finish on glass), if you want a mirror-type reflection. There was a company in Vancouver,BC, Fish bros., I think, that would silver your glass for you. Good luck

It seems the information I gave Katrina is not up to date, probably why she asked here. My apologies. H-W only has one or two bottles of Glassline paint on their website and nothing in the Stainers or Enamels category. They used to have a fair range. They're closed Saturdays so I can't phone them to...

Hi Katrina, Welcome. You did say you are new to all this so don't be insulted if I comment that there are a lot of art supplies companies in Australia that advertise 'Glass Paint' but they are actually selling paints that are not to be fired in a kiln. They simply put a skin of colour on the glass; ...

Hi Carol Ann, Just doing a response when I saw Brad had already replied.

Don't overlook his response concerning the possibility of a plugged, or no, hole in the bottom of the mold.

Good luck with the refire. Let us know how it goes.

Read all about it: https://www.aaeglass.com/media/downloadable/files/links/e/-/e-z_fire_enamel_guide.pdf • A-14 was by far the best mixing medium I found to use with these enamels. This can be found here at AAE Glass https://www.aaeglass.com/a-14-enamel-painting-screenprinting- enamel-2oz-bottle.htm...

I use the method described by Jim, and taught to me by Albin Elskus: Reusche mixed in clove oil and fired. Non-fired colour additions are vulnerable to being cleaned off. Engraving is a one-shot commitment. Get it wrong and you can't wipe it off. A painted and fired signature will last the life of t...

Hi Shawn, did any of the answers you received solve your problem? If not perhaps reconsider your vacuum's suction. I regularly blasted with 220 before I switched to 180, which soon breaks down to 220, anyway. By stepping back, as suggested, you can still get a smooth blast, not a pock-marked finish,...

My neighbors would report me to the zoning commission. No medieval warfare machines may be deployed unless grandfathered-in from the twelfth century.[/quote]

A decomposing cow fired over the bulwarks would put and end to that.