WarmGlass.com

This sounds like an excellent idea! I am definitely going to try this at my next craft fair. Thanks a bunch!

Cheers,
Suzan

An often used formula is 1 part pottery plaster to 1 part silica, mixed with water as usual. Here is an excellent web site for additional info:

http://www.glassaustralia.anu.edu.au/da ... .data.html

Select the "Pate de Verre" link.

Cheers,
Suzan

That won't work. If you simply paint the glass paste onto the outiside of bisqueware, the glass will melt off. Pate de verre requires a lot of steps, and you really should get a book on the subject, but to give you an idea, I'll detail my first small pate de verre item: 1. Used a small bisque bowl a...

When I make a pate de verre bowl, I use talc on the inside to keep the glass from moving. The inside is not as shiny as the outside, but it' still looks good, no worse than a bit of texture on the back of fused flat piece.

Cheers,
Suzan

Molds can be made from clay, but I'd suggest you buy yourself a basic pottery book so that you have an understanding of how to form and fire clay. It's not very difficult, but some specific knowledge is required. Clay can be fired from about 1900F to well over 2200F. You need to verify that your gla...

Another fun thing to try is to buy plaster gauze from a hobby or art supply shop. Cut into strips, dip quickly in a bowl of water, and apply the strips onto the face of a Vaseline-smeared volunteer. Be careful not to block their nostrils, and apply 2 layers. After it has dried for about 20 minutes, ...

Colin!

Is there any other advantage to raw firing other than you can skip a separate firing?

In two books, it was suggested that when firing ceramics for use as a glass mold, they should be fired at 2 cone levels lower than for normal bisque, but neither book stated why. Any clue?

Cheers,
Suzan

Jerry, when you stacked the glass, did you put the same colour of glass all together or did you stack the different colours randomly?

I think the bowl looks lovely as it is. I've seen blown glass bowls with a similar shape.

The slumping range goes up to about 1300F. I suspect 1250F to 1300F for about 45 minutes would have gotten more slumping.

1. My pot melts always turn out opaque, even when I use only transparent glasses. Is there some trick to getting pot melts to be more transparent?

Cheers,
Suzan

I would suggest simply relaxing with your favourite brew and settle down to reading the manual a few times; it's not that long. I also have a 9 key Bartlett controller, and find it easy to use. On the 3rd reading, I'm sure it'll make sense to you. There's a section where they give you a step by step...

If you are using e.g. the Duncan underglazes on glass, should you fire to the cone temperature listed on the bottle, or should you fire it lower?

About a year ago someone posted that they always ramp 300 d/h to the end temp in order to avoid bubbles. I usually do so, and rarely have any bubbles. Recently, I tried a schedule exactly as listed from Spectrum, which had a slow ramp to about 1000F, then AFAP to fuse temp, etc. and this gave me a t...

Thanks, Tony. This is what I needed to know (the flat lap ain't in my budget for now :cry: ) However, the angle grinder is a possibility. So far, all my slumped pieces have a rough surface from contact with the mold; will the angle grinder get the glass back to the same glossy surface you usually ge...

Could anyone discuss brifely what a "flat lap" is, as well as the other grinders and polishers mentioned in this thread? I'm not familiar with any of these tools. Are these large, expensive machines?

Thanks,
Suzan