Search found 174 matches

by Tom White
Wed Feb 18, 2004 9:42 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Unique overlaze for copper
Replies: 12
Views: 13346

Just a few more thoughts about Unique clear over copper. The maturity temperature of the original Unique colors is listed as cone 016, 1500 - 1525 F per their web site http://www.uniqueglasscolors.com/glasoriginal.html This is fine when fusing float but a little hotter than normal fusing temp for BE...
by Tom White
Sun Feb 15, 2004 10:23 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Dichro on dichro
Replies: 6
Views: 6761

With dichro to dichro fusing the coater which applied the dichro to the glass plays a part in success ratio. In my experience glass coated by CBS has a better chance of fusing well dichro to dichro than glass from other coaters.

Best wishes,
Tom inTexas
by Tom White
Sun Feb 15, 2004 10:15 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Help with Bleeder Valve?
Replies: 3
Views: 4037

It sounds like you are talking about the pressure regulator that controls the pressure delivered from your compressor's tank to your airline. If that is the case this device has a rubber diaphram attached to a metal stem which is moved by the plastic knob above it to adjust the pressure delivered to...
by Tom White
Mon Jan 26, 2004 1:49 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: obviously....[b]I screwed up[/b]!!!
Replies: 5
Views: 5453

Cathy, I have to assume the tiles you used were glazed tiles instead of bisque tiles. In general the glazes on commercial tiles are fired considerably hotter than glass fusing temperatures. I would guess the maturity temperature of the glaze on your tile to be 2000 F or hotter. I am not sure how muc...
by Tom White
Sun Jan 18, 2004 11:25 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: spectrum frit
Replies: 2
Views: 3589

C & R Loo

Best wishes.
Tom in Texas
by Tom White
Thu Jan 15, 2004 10:20 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Float Slump feels like sandpaper on the bottom (HELP!)
Replies: 4
Views: 4921

I have experienced some of the same thing with my mini pot melts. There seems to be an almost not visable to the naked eye coating of kiln wash stuck to the back of the melt that gives it an unpleasant texture. I eliminate this by using a 120 grit Dremel flap sander over the surface in contact with ...
by Tom White
Tue Jan 13, 2004 9:52 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: silk screening questions?
Replies: 20
Views: 19138

One very good reason to use fat oil (pine oil) is that when you silk screen to make waterslide decals the pigments (enamels) must be in a medium which will not disolve and release the color when the decal is applied. Fat oil is a reasonably fast drying medium when the color is laid down on the decal...
by Tom White
Fri Jan 09, 2004 9:21 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: filigrees - can I
Replies: 4
Views: 5752

You might want to try painting youy metal before fusing with something to keep it bright. I use Unique Glass Colors clear. Others have suggested Super Spray, Spray A or borax solution. View mine at http://photos.yahoo.com/tomwhite2

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas
by Tom White
Tue Jan 06, 2004 7:55 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Copper Wire fused between glass
Replies: 10
Views: 10662

I have kept sheet copper inclusions bright by coating them with clear Unique Glass Paint before fusing. I get some bubbles on the copper. You can see at http://photos.yahoo.com/tomwhite2

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas
by Tom White
Sun Jan 04, 2004 12:07 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: steel thickness mold Q?
Replies: 9
Views: 6410

Rosanna, I'm not exactly sure I understand what you want to do. It sounds like you want to support a kilnwashed piece of steel above the kiln shelf with glass extending out past the edges of the steel and do a slump firing to bend the edges of the glass down past the steel mold then remove the glass...
by Tom White
Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:28 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Looking for a better castable mold material
Replies: 18
Views: 16032

Jim, I have a couple of questions about the talc you are using as a release. First, is it raw (gray color) or calcined (white color)? Second, are you applying it by dusting it on the mold dry or are you applying it in a slurry form? There has been some discussion on this board in the past about the ...
by Tom White
Sun Jan 04, 2004 12:06 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Looking for a better castable mold material
Replies: 18
Views: 16032

A couple of thoughts on this, first 899 C = 1472 F. Could you get the results you want with a longer soak at a slightly lower temp? 1400 F = 760 C as a starting point. In my experience the hotter glass is heated the worse it sticks to anything it touches. Second, I have had good results with several...
by Tom White
Fri Jan 02, 2004 12:35 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Silver Lusters
Replies: 15
Views: 12075

OK, then you do want the reaction beween the French Vanilla and the silver. The silver nitrate solution I have is water thin. This might be a little thin for use with a Kemper capillary pen. It might tend to spread wider than the width of the pen tube. You might want to look at a crow quill pen poin...
by Tom White
Thu Jan 01, 2004 11:34 pm
Forum: Kiln Casting
Topic: expanded metal in plaster / silica molds
Replies: 7
Views: 9395

Ted, as I understand the term fusing refers to heating two or more layers of usually flat pieces of compatable glass in contact with each other until they soften and adhere to each other. Fusing can vary from tack fusing where usually smaller glass pieces are heated until they just stick to the base...
by Tom White
Thu Jan 01, 2004 10:14 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Silver Lusters
Replies: 15
Views: 12075

Amy, do you want a metalic silver color or the yellow to orange silver strain color on your BE French Vanilla? Also, doesn't French Vanilla contain lead which makes it react differently than most glass? I would suggest small scale tests with whatever material you choose to try before large productio...
by Tom White
Thu Jan 01, 2004 9:39 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Silver Lusters
Replies: 15
Views: 12075

Amy, platinum, paladium, and "white gold" are the only white (silver) metalic lusters I have seen in the ceramic world. Why do you think platinum won't work for what you have in mind? Email me or pm me if you don't want to go into details on the board. I'm afraid anything based on true sil...
by Tom White
Wed Dec 31, 2003 11:45 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: fiberglass
Replies: 2
Views: 3381

The only practical use of fiberglass for a slumping mold I have heard of is the use of borosilicate glass fibers in a plaster/silica mold to strengthen it and prevent cracking while firing. BTW, contacte me directly again, the email I sent to you bounced.

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas
by Tom White
Wed Dec 31, 2003 10:45 pm
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Shelf paper on bottom of kiln?
Replies: 3
Views: 4282

You really should have the shelf one or two inches off the bottom of the kiln. If the shelves you have for your ceramic kiln will fit into your new glass kiln you are better off using a shelf from them until you can get a new one even if it does not make use of the whole area of the new kiln. Best w...
by Tom White
Wed Dec 31, 2003 9:38 am
Forum: Techniques and Tools
Topic: Moving kiln shelves?
Replies: 4
Views: 6875

Deb, the first two suggestions that come to my mind are to get a slightly smaller shelf to allow more clearance on the sides or place the shelf in the kiln then put your glass on it inside the kiln as I do 90 % of the time. It might be possible to cut 1/2" off each of two opposite sides of your...
by Tom White
Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:49 pm
Forum: Kiln Casting
Topic: expanded metal in plaster / silica molds
Replies: 7
Views: 9395

Ted, I think 1550 is a little too cold for drip casting. The temps I have seen and used most are 1600 to 1650. You might try soaking at 1600 or 1650 for 30 minutes then take a quick peek to see if all the glass has dripped out of the pot and the bubbles have popped. If not soak a little longer then ...