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If they've requested a booth shot, they're looking to see that your booth is professional and not simply a card table with an old sheet thrown across it. As for the slides of your work, they're looking for a consistent style and approach. In other words, a jury member should come away with a clear i...

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http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1662

To second Marty and Brad's responses, I have kilns that are top and bottom fired, top and side fired, and top only. They all work for fusing and slumping. My big slumper is top fired only and while the construction of the kiln, the type of elements and insulation are all contributing factors, it fir...

Don't think you'll find colored test tubes, but you should be able to find test tubes wholesale from a scientific supply co. I've colored test tubes by filling and emptying with a craft store dye (can't remember what it's called) that's used for making fake stained glass. I don't imagine it's very d...

I haven't found any difference based on one test. (Well, maybe the Super Spray had slightly better coverage) I'm running some more tests today and will report tomorrow. But, if the Super Spray works for you and you're not using it on food bearing surfaces (it may still be ok for food bearing surface...

Last night I tried putting colored pieces on top, and they merged beautifully with no bubbles... I'll try some new pieces and go up to 1490. Hopefully the glass gods will bless my kiln today and I will not have to go mad! Try 1480. Don't think you'll need to go higher. Also, depending on your desig...

... I understand that I need to have the centre drop before the sides in order to stop trapping air in there but now I'm confused with your reply where you say to hold it at 1250 for 30 min. Does this ensure the sides will drop slower than the centre? That's exactly right. Of course, there are many...

bullseye gallery now showing related works: http://www.bullseyeconnectiongallery.com/ also, bullseye mentions this: http://www.pilchuck.com/educational_program/class(1.5).html also you might like looking at non-fused architectural glass panels made in dalle de verre method. google it ... i don't ha...

Wondering who out there is doing architectural and site-specific kilnformed glass (as opposed to work which is meant for a gallery). I know you are, Bert, and BJ Katz, - there must be others.

Post a reply or send an email. Thanks.

Putting your colored elements on the top layer as Steve suggested will help as well as using double rolled glass. However, you can successfully fire the colored elements in the center provided they fit together so as not to trap a lot of air. Try this firing schedule: go as fast as possible—or as ...

There's a studio in Biot (south of France) that makes glassware characterized by lots of bubbles. It's been a long time since I visited, but, if I recall correctly, they sprayed the first or second gather with a fine mist of baking soda/powder(?), then gathered over that and blew out the form. (http...

As Barbara mentioned, Palmer and Gunther are manufacturers of mirror mastic. Comes in cartridges like silicone. Your local glass shop might sell you a tube. If this is a vertical installation, the mirror may need to be supported along a bottom edge. I have successfully used silicone without it eatin...

Wondering if there are any visitors to this board in Richmond, VA or thereabouts. I will be in Richmond from July 16 to the 20th for an installation of a cast glass wall at the Marriott on E. Broad. Not looking for a place to crash but maybe the opportunity to meet some other warm glass people—or,...

I don't do shows anymore (well, one trade show per year), but if I bring an assistant for an installation, I pay travel expenses, lodging, and meals plus hours worked. I typically set a limit for what I pay for meals, usually about $35-$40 per day depending on the locale. I exclude alcohol, though i...

I also got an email from Turkey which included this website: <http://www.tasarimgroup.com. Undoubtedly, someone is researching material for an article and found us through any number of sources: internet search, published articles, The Guild Sourcebook, maybe they stumbled upon the Warm Board. Three...

Just to add a clarification, there is the website, the catalog and the sourcebooks such as the Artful Home and Architectural and Interior Art. The sourcebooks are oriented more toward site-specific commissioned works.

Visited your site very briefly, Ellen. Very beautiful pate-de-verre.

The sides would probably pull away from the top...er, bottom.

Are the sides vertical? If they angle out, why not make a conventional slumping mold, that is, a depression mold out of your fiberboard?

The new board has taken some getting used to, but I prefer it. More discussion on topic, fewer tedious digressions. (I could live without the emoticons, especially the animated ones flashing in the corner of my eye as I type.) One thing that might improve the board—and this must come from the user...

Give it two or three days. Even 120 grit should give you nice etched surface. As long as you fill your tumbler at least half full you shouldn't need any filler. If it's not full enough, you won't get enough abrading action. You can always use bits of scrap glass as filler or you can buy various tumb...