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were there not debates here in the distant past where you could get better results when firing glass by using Aluminum oxide grit and NOT carbide.

Three Words.
Don't Do it.
Known differences will result in tiny cracks of incompatibility around the offending bits.
These could cause the piece to later break completely years later.

Caution drilling shell material. All marine life fills their shells with poison to slow down their being eaten by other sea creatures. Do under water, no dust and wear safety equipment.
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Swiveling cutter heads can be good to follow curved lines but the rest of the time it is a pain even if you follow Toyo's directions of tilting the cutter back. Using a Thomas Grip cutter you can adjust the handle sizing such that you can hold your middle finger beside the head and get the best of b...

The acid used was probably not hydrochloric but rather HF. That is most definitely a don't try at home!! It can eat the wires in your studio walls never mind burning your bones. I have experienced contamination by silver months later coming out of the refractories in my kiln. If you think of working...

It will be cheaper in the long run to cut your losses and dump the 96 and just switch to Bullseye. Every time you make something and it breaks months later is a financial disaster.

This is for Barry.
When you have cut as many miles of glass as I have and are concerned with clean cuts and zero flaring you will adjust the screw.
The bonus is less stress on you hand.
However since you know what you are doing don't bother.

cleaner cuts are made with a properly adjusted pair. Zero flaring at the start of the cut.

Finally an area to explore to try and create glass like Brian Blanthorn created.
His techniques were most certainly not simple.
Now, when do I find the time?

I should think you will be ok so long as your annealing times were correct.
Check with polarized filters and then you will know.
don't be in a rush to remove the pieces from the kiln.

it is heat work that is causing the chemistry of the glass to change.
I do not fire multiple firings. Do it in one firing and you won't have the problem.

you have heat loss issues. Somewhere in that kiln you have a draft of cool air getting inside is my thought. Check your kiln. I may suggest the following may help. Get a really bright battery operated light. Put it inside your cold non running kiln in a blacked out room and look for light escaping a...

Never assume anything with a kiln.
You should be checking your connections for any signs of discoloration regularly.
Turn off the power first!

I've used Digitry controllers for 40 years. Only problem I encountered was allowing a sending unit's wire to get too close to a kiln and melt resulting in an internal fuse in the controller to blow. Since it was a Little Fuse, it was tricky to track down and find. What might be your problem is when ...

I don't use Boron because once you do, you cannot go back to much cheaper kiln wash.
If Boron is supposed to last through multiple firings, and it is just like kiln wash as a separator, delay will not be an issue.
Now leaving a coated mold around for weeks in a dusty study may change your results.

Off topic again Peter, but you obviously did not visit that site and watch the whole presentation to go off on a rant about carbon.
To each his own. My last comment here on this topic.

powder tends to be self insulating because of the air between the granules. if you have a range of sizes of grit, then they can nestle into the spaces between each other. bigger granules will in general be clearer as trapped air can make a piece not look as clear. However why change if what you are ...

Before everyone goes off on a tangent to reduce energy usage in an effort to halt natural climate change, give your head a shake. Man is not the driver of all the variations in climate and nor is carbon. Take a look at this site for a logical explanation of it all. Perhaps Australia, being close to ...

When Bullseye first started there were some colours that you could fuse but try a second firing and it would break. Now the description I believe is 3 full fuse firings. Since fuse firings are nowhere near those temperatures you are way over any chances of stability. I only fire glass twice for that...

Tighten the wires in the usual way: Yes tighten the wires. Leave for a long period of time. Retighten the wires and repeat until you can no longer retighten the connections. The copper will move during the above process and if not done can result in burning of connections and necessitate element rep...