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Yes, Rodney, I've used low-fire ceramic glazes and underglazes for years. Most low-fire glazes are designed for cone06 which is more in the 1900 F range. Test-fire all your glazes. Most are not food-safe especially since you will in effect be underfireing these glazes. If you want to use them on din...

Steph--What is suger acid?

I don't know much about compressors but I do have a suggestion as to how to get more for your $. I rented a compressor from a tool rental (Jim's Air) and tried it out for a day. They were MUCH more informatative than any Home Depot person. Tell them what you want to accomplish and they will direct y...

The mystery of why one spot on your ceramic mold won't take kiln wash has a very non-mystereous solution: Many ceramic molds are made by slip-casting which involves pouring liquid clay (slip) into the plaster molds. When the pour is being done the stream of slip falls on the same spot on the mold an...

:?: There was a discussion recently about recommended grades of stainless steel for molds. Tried searching archives and the tutorial but couldn't find info. I want to have some molds made and want to tell fabricator what type of steel to use and what thickness to use for some drop-ring molds. Since ...

you can also buy nichrome wire from your local fusing supply store or ceramics supply store. get the heavier gauge and cut and bend it into pins.

Bert, I like working with thick glass too. What do you consider thick? And can you cut a small radius curve--say 2 inches, with this tap wheel on thick glass?

Spend the extra $ on a controler. You won't regret it. I started fusing in a ceramic kiln with just a Dawson kiln sitter and the two viewing holes. I under-fired and over-fired a lot of glass. When I bought my Denver kiln with it's set point controler my life changed: The quality of my glass improve...

Read that discussion now before posting this reply, and I see something that might be incorrect in the discussion: I don't think Alchemy Glass sinks are 2 inches thick. Last fall I was commissioned to build a sink and my research lead me to the Alchemy Glass web site and to a showroom in Bethesda, M...

I bend candle wraps and wall sconce lighting fixtures on steel pipe. I had a welding shop split the pipe lengthwise and I use both kiln wash and 1/16 inch fiber paper as separators. I acquired some pipe used for fire protection systems in large commercial building and it doesn't seem to scale as muc...

I need stands, Dick Kolpak. Didn't find email address for you in your profile. Check mine and send me a note.
Thanks

I've used castolite. Plan on test firing before you fire a full kiln. I fired a load in which I had castolite molds, steel molds, ceramic molds and ceramic fiber molds and the glass on castolite over-fired. the other pieces were fine. My thinking is that the castolite retained the heat much longer t...

Congrats Kitty. Glad you solved that problem. Would love to see the finished piece.
Kitty. I'll be in touch soon.

This grinder discussion is just in time. I've been considering buying one . So how large was this surface Doug Randall did in his workshop and how many man-hours did it take? I'm assuming this will put a high polish on the edge of a 20" diameter bowl or plate?

Is that skim coat hydroperm that hasn't been whipped up with the electric mixer? So then the mold doesn't need another kiln wash or other separator?

I make my wall vases by stacking 2 layers of 1/4 inch and 1 layer of 1/8 inch fiber paper. I use a stiff wire to pull the fired paper out of the fused wall vases held under water. I then re-use the fired paper indefinitely to make textures on molds and shelves in other kiln projects.

I found a short discussion in the old archive in which Brock Craig says a mold made of Hydrostone can be used immediately. Am I correct in interpreting that to mean the mold doesn't need to dry before firing. Also Is this material suited for both open-faced molds and for lost wax molds?
Thanks