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Great idea, Valerie. I've worried about transporting the work to the kiln. Even looked into buying a fiber kiln but opted out on that. I've got a couple of the fiber kilns, which I originally bought for travel-teaching. But while they're lighter than brick kilns, they're not exactly light enough to...

Hairspray holds really well. I use unscented White Rain or Rave non-aerosol hairspray from the dollar store. If you're already putting the kids' work on paper plates, you could just cover them with saran wrap and gently stack. The hairspray will hold just fine, and I've never had any issues with res...

You could also have them use cheap non-aerosol hairspray. I keep it in a little bottle with a narrow pointed tip.

I use Spray A now and then with a few of my pickier opals. Although eliminating Thinfire has helped with my devit problem. I did some tack fused ornaments recently and used Spray A to 1325°. My ornaments were all splotched and looked like they'd been sprayed. I've made the mistake before; in my opin...

I can't wait to see what the two of you do next!

Bob, you never cease to inspire with the creative boundaries you push; I'm in awe of your work and your dedication to continuous growth.

paulas wrote: I found great image that is an example of what I am talking about (see the necklace). How are they getting both sides of the ring round?

Have you asked the artist?

I would try something like "Flexi-Glass". Make a sheet of dark Flexi, cut the letters out with stencils and an exacto-knife, and fuse them capped with 2mm clear. Simple, quick, cheap, and as legible as your skill in cutting allows. You may even be able to cut the Flexi-glass directly with...

Also, if you want to use glass powder, the best method is probably Carrie Iverson's gum image transfer method, which is covered in one of Bullseye's (fee-based) online videos. If you go this route, be aware that it's a fairly complicated process but it does give good results with powder and allows ...

Eric, read through this thread to see if any of the ideas might work for you: http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=39641 Sifting powders through a template will not result in crisp letters. There's not enough pigment in the powder to show up with a very thin layer, and if you do a...

I believe C&R Loo also sells it.

I like these guys:
http://www.abcplastics.com/index.php?pa ... &Itemid=53

I would spritz the glass with adhesive or hairspray before laying the doily on. Quickly add the powdered glass and let it set a minute, but not long enough to fully dry. Carefully remove the doily - since the doily is dry on the top side, no loose powder will stick. The spaces with adhesive and pow...

Vonon wrote:Am I correct to assume you must drill holes for air to escape during slumping?

I have several "dishes" I use for slumping that don't have holes. If they're shallow enough, you don't need them.

Yes, kilns can be fairly inexpensive to run, if that's all you're paying for. Depends on where your kiln is hooked up. I was arguing with my husband that my kilns weren't the culprits to our crazy-high electric bill; after all, I'd done the calculations based on the energy use panels on each kiln. I...

Perhaps I misunderstood what you meant; I use glazed ceramic ware from the kitchen store, or thrift stores, etc. There is no metal. I'm thinking that Bert and I are talking about two different types of ware.

I have several pieces of kitchenware that I use as molds. If the glaze is shiny, I attack it with my hand sander or hardware cloth, anything to give it some 'tooth.' I then spray them with kiln wash. I've used a set of Chantal dishes for several years.

Morganica wrote: Would I use them on thin glass? Every time. The glass breaks cleaner, without the usual slanty or chipout direction at the point of the break.

OK; I'm going to put mine out on my workbench and try them for thin glass!

I bought them from a seller on Ebay, thinking I was making a score (no pun intended) because they were so inexpensive. Used them a few times and was glad I didn't pay retail. I also use the cheap running pliers; same pair for the last 11 years. I finally replaced the rubber tips.

I wish I could see a larger picture because it looks like a very impressive piece! For me, strip pieces are all about the precision and color choices, so it looks like you've succeeded on both counts.

1470° for a top temp in my kilns would be too hot for what you're doing. You didn't mention how long you held at that temp either. My top temp for a full-fused, two layer piece is 1440° with a 10-minute hold. Your piece looks over fired to me, due to those sharp little points on the corners. I routi...