WarmGlass.com

Based on other recommendations on this board, that's what I've been using, too. No problems so far (except it does stick to my nails!)

for you English system users..... …. take 1.25cm (0.5 inch) chips of all of the glasses that you are planning to use and place them on a 6.35 cm (2.5 inches) wide piece of clear test glass (Tekta or 1101) such that there is at least 2.5 cm (1.0 inch) of space between each chip and the edges of the g...

Thank you for all the wise words. While i have sold for many years, my being part of the show is a new experience that takes some getting used to. Fortunately I had lots of help and a whole bunch of my friends came. Sold a few pieces, learned a lot and will be much more relaxed for the next one in D...

Moved my studio to a building that houses about 100 artists and has quarterly "art walks". Tomorrow is the first time I'm offering glass pieces for sale. I've cleaned up and set the display space and lighting. Got my square ready, along with the requisite wine and snacks. Any last minute a...

I love your work...the "busier" ones make me feel like I'm hiking up the mountains, a bit breathless and the last one, the quieter one, feels like I've reach the sumitt and can catch my breath. Yet it is still distinguishable as yours.
Thanks for sharing.

Have another thought...if you plan to hang this piece on a wall, why not see how it looks with the wall paint showing thru? Or perhaps mount it in a shadow box for a similar opaque background effect....

Here is the schedule used to flatten the pieces.

200F to 1100F no hold
50F to 1250F 60
AFAP to 1450F 15
AFAP to 900F 90
50F to 800F 0
100F to 700F 0
300F to 100F 0

I reheated them on a kiln washed shelf . I don't my exact schedule now...will post it when I get back to my studio. I remember it was something like 200F/hour to 1450F then used standard BE anneal schedule. Said the standard prayers to the kiln goddess and now I have 2 flat ovoid pieces, slightly la...

Whoops, Marty, you're right I was way too vague. My stuff is mostly bowls and plates for now, both opaque and transparent, glossy and matte finishes. (I'm allowing myself to diverge since this is all new to me....hope to develop a recognizable personal style someday.) Photos will go on my website an...

My husband has generously offered to photograph my finished pieces and asked what is being used to prop up pieces to photograph them with a solid backdrop (so the prop doesn't show up in the photo). I've looked at a lot of the posted photos and most look like they are overhead shots or side shots. D...

Thank you both for answering. The bottom layer was half french vanilla and the other half was pieced tekta. Top layer was pieces of turquoise irid and french vanilla. I expected the center strip of irid to react and fully fuse over the gap. I now think I should have held it at mas temp longer to mor...

Just took a 14" diameter, 2.5" deep, 7-8 mm thick bowl (BE glass, first time with irid) out of completely cooled slumping mold and it broke in half where piece of transparent irid over tekta butted up against piece of french vanilla. Looking at the split, there is some tekta that slid down...

Don You're absolutely right about my intent. Of course, an artist should work however s/he chooses. However, I don't understand making something with the intent of becoming "important". But I am very lucky, I can afford what I invest in this pursuit. If that were to change, I can understan...

Just returned from GAS where one of the presenters lectured for a good 45 minutes on the need to return to the blob stage of hot glass vs pursuing refined technique. The speaker is a museum researcher and academic and art critic. And said he's not a particular fan of glass as a medium. Maybe I'm jus...