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You're sure the glass was fusable glass? If you bought glass from Hobby Lobby thinking it was compatible - it ain't, and there's your problem.

If it was fusable, then perhaps you are cooling too quickly? You didn't post your schedule.

Well, change is good (for artists at least). Maybe it's time to focus exclusively on float/ bottle glass? Everyone can do a pattern bar. What new technique is waiting to be discovered?

Viva la Float Glass!

I like Fusemaster and have had great success with Yellow, Blue and Green at any color. Red and Orange can be a pain in the ass.

Like your pattern bars. Great technique. Your pieces look a little busy, but they also look a lot beautiful.

Loved your stands. You weld them yourself?

Chad? His friend Robert is much cuter.

OK, this is more kiln related. I tried calling Paragon, but they don't have business hours on Friday. So, I programed and fired my school's kiln, a Paragon Dragon. I programed a 300 DPH cool down. I got the FTC message because the kiln naturally cools slower than 300 DPH. OK, so my question. We got ...

Oh. No. You have to re-fuse it to remove the crack, unless the crack is due to non-compatibility. If it's not compatible glass, your project is toast.

1) You should have had an anneal hold at 950.
2) You're sure this is all compatible glass, right...? You used only glass certified as being compatible?

Just being sure. Many people have told me they have mixed 90 with 96 because they thought it was compatible, which it's not.

On occasion I have left things. I try to identify the objects by the ash remains.

I stick with rectangles simply because they lend themselves easier to designs.
Just my humble opinion.

I also use decal paper. 1) I do not buy from Delphi because they are substantially more expensive (or they were the last time I price checked). Instead I buy from Bel Decal. http://www.beldecal.com/laser_paper.html 2) I found I can fire directly on 90 or 96 type glasses. If you fire on float, you mu...

Corrosion? I hope you mean tarnish. If the metal is corroding, it may only be silver plated. If that is the case, please buy real silver. 1) I use Argentium silver, which is tarnish resistant. 2) If I am selling the jewelry, I explain to the customer that silver will eventually tarnish. I suggest th...

It does this while firing, but after firing, it looks normal, right? If so, it's just the binders burning out.
Disclaimer: this is what I was told. I make my own kiln wash.

As for System 96 glass, yellow and white have also been troublesome.

Yeah, cool idea but you're using crap-glass. Try the concept with a tested compatible glass.

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I've done pot melts at 1650. Gil Reynolds does his low-temp- wire pours at 1465.

And a second L? Ugh...

I was experimenting with a new pattern bar technique. It was late at night, I was tired... bla bla bla... So. I programmed in a 9 hour anneal and hit the fire button. I checked the next morning. Looked good. That evening, I checked again but didn't look at the digital read out, but it seemed to be a...