WarmGlass.com

Just in case someone's not heard of this site, it can be very useful in figuring out which adhesives to use: http://www.thistothat.com

Its first choice is GE Silicone II, BTW...

Another reason to use clear: It puts a layer between you and potential bubbles, giving you plenty of room to grind all the way to flat (or to shape a particular profile) without breaking through bubbles and making pinholes in the top of your piece.

My experience has been on fused/slumped pyrex glass where a white powdery material was on the surface after reaching 750 deg C and holding it there for about an hour - the longer I held the glass at that temp the more severe the white powder got (the glass was clean/clear before it went into the ki...

Thank you. Just one more clarification .If the work is after first fire (full fuse) and got devit, can I apply Borax and slump. Would it help to remove the Devit? Thanks Osnat Use nail polish remover to get rid of the devit after the first firing/slumping.If you're concerned about any chemical resi...

Passive for now, yes, although I don't just open the peepholes, I crack the kiln lid on the bathtub kiln by a good 2-3 inches. I'm looking into an active ventilation system for the whole studio--I've literally rusted out half my garage with the passive--so that will change.

Nope, not hardly. Devit is short for devitrification, and it means the glass is starting to crystallize--it's literally becoming something besides glass and it will spread/deepen with every subsequent firing. You remove it by sandblasting or grinding off the affected areas, and fire polishing. Or by...

Just to make sure I understand. You take the flat fused piece and put an angle on it (?30 degrees or so? - I can't find the Spanish upside down question mark). This will be from the bottom edge toward the top, yes? Do you leave a bit of a lip on the bottom edge, or make that relatively sharp. I gue...

Don't know if this will help, but I did a test where I stacked colored opal and clear cubes* in a cylindrical crucible with a hole in dead center bottom about the diameter of one cube. I heated it up to 1525F on a slow casting schedule and let it drip into a similar plaster/silica cylinder. Then I q...

Some people get the hazing with fiber paper (not just thinfire, and not just Tekta), some don't. I get the hazing with fiber paper, don't particularly care since I almost always coldwork the piece pretty extensively either going into the final firing or after I'm done. It may also have something to ...

You may be a newbie, but I've seen it take loooooong time for even experienced folk to realize that your program can outrun your kiln. ;-) Sometimes it's an amps problem, sometimes you've just got a whole bunch of mass in firebrick holding heat, a lot of airspace to heat up, and too few elements. An...

Nice spreadsheet. Is it sharable or for sale? =P~ I'm finding that some of my schedules seem to be taking an awfully long time. A friend has the same size kiln (I know --no two kilns are the same but still.....i have the Olympic GF314ETLC) and the same firing schedule takes her 19 hours and takes m...

You can also make french cleats out of clear acrylic if your glass is mostly transparent. They'll still show a bit, but are far less obvious.

Depends on what you started with (did you edge the blank before you started the slump, did it slump evenly, etc.), your technique and speed, the size of the grit you're using, how much material you're removing and how tight you want the polish. If you've got to remove a half inch of really jagged ma...

You can also try cutting elongated diamonds and nip off the extremely angled corners. One thing: Different colors can give different results with the same schedule (unless you just nuke the heck out it). If you're noticing that some colors give a great oval result and others don't, boosting the sche...

Actually, you can do a pretty good job with just grit, cerium, a little water and a sheet of float glass and it takes less time than you'd think. Plus, it's an excellent solution for studio space problems.

Flat laps are useful for evening out a surface to exactly the same plane, such as making the edges of a bowl parallel, flattening the usually convex surface of a full fuse, or flattening the base of something to make it stable. I started out with 220-400-600, then cork for polish. Worked well--I've ...

The shape makes me kinda wonder--do the holes line up with the copper inclusions at all? Asking because a friend got much the same thing on a flat kilnshelf about a month ago, using copper inclusions. Really weird, but it flattened out just fine on the next firing.

No prob. I set up the spreadsheet several years ago, mostly for casting so I didn't have to keep getting up in the middle of the night to close the vents. The spreadsheet lets me play around with the schedule so that I can pay attention to the kiln at reasonable hours.

Are you sure you're not miscalculating? I ran your schedule through my spreadsheet tool and came up pretty close to Stephen's schedule. (Mine's a bit shorter, I think because I was starting from 78F): schedule.gif I have you reaching the 900F anneal point around 11AM, give or take some time, which i...

Do the crystals have any kind of odor? From the amount of deposits, it's something outgassing from a fair amount of surface area. Could be the borax overheated but like Rosanna and a couple others I'm wondering about the steel. 303 stainless can outgas and form deposits, as can galvanized/hot dipped...