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Thanks, Valerie. So do you think hoovering my kiln really well is enough to get out the thinfire residue? I've been trying to switch over to just BE kiln wash, but thinfire is SUCH a timesaver! I have NOT used any TF with the Tekta, so I suppose I must have some residue, or perhaps not cleaned the g...

A little dawn and water. Rinse well. Then a good wipe with alcohol right before it goes into kiln. Same as I have always done.

I was generously given a load of Tekta by someone, and have used it in several projects. I have noticed that when I use it as a main component (as in a plate w/PB inclusions), it does not seem very clear. I don't use thinfire, just a kiln washed shelf. Is that just what Tekta does? Haven't used it m...

One of the best tutorials I know of is Steve Immerman's at Clearwater Glass http://www.clearwaterglass.com/Tutorial ... ction.html. He is a master at strip construction, as you'll see from his site! Good luck.

Wow. That IS a really good comparison. Thanks so much the info, Mike! That certainly is helpful.

No, not irid. I use both 96 and Bullseye. I'm going to look back through my notes and see if this has ever happened with the 90 before. Curious.

This seems to happen to me frequently when I slump with clear glass. It almost looks like stretch marks. This is a very shallow plate mold - no more than 1/4" deep. It was 96 glass with pattern bar inserts that had been full fused, cold worked and fire polished. My slump schedule was as follows...

Yep. Thanks!

Actually, some of them were a little shy of the height of the two sheets of the 3mm. I had hoped that they would fill in. Do you think that's what happened - not thick enough?

I've done these before and not had a problem...Any idea why the pattern bars would pull away from the clear? If you can see, there are a few places where there are holes between the bars and the clear strip at the top of the plate. All bullseye glass. Two layers of 3mm clear intersected with row of ...

That's what I was hoping. Many thanks, as always!

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Would I use the same schedule as I usually use for two layers of 3mm?

Someone gave me a bunch of 6mm Tekta recently that they ordered by mistake. I love to do pattern bar inclusions, and wondered if I cut my bars to 6mm slices, can I use one sheet of the Tekta instead of piling two 3mm on top of each other? I hate to not use the glass, so I'll border the bars in clear...

I think since I'm already starting out 'in the negative' with such a shallow kiln to try this in, I'll play it safe and go 100 dph. I'm in no hurry - learned the hard way 'hurry' and 'glass' don't mix well!

Many thanks! I think I'll give it a try on a test piece. Very curious to see how they will come out!

Nope, can't turn off the top elements. Should I remove the shelf to give myself a little more room?

I have been fortunate to try and experiment with just about everything in my 15/6 Jen-Ken kiln - except a drop ring. Is it possible to do one in such a shallow kiln? If so, would I take out the shelf to do it? Put thin-fire directly on the kiln floor? Unfortunately, I can't turn off the top elements...

Thanks all for your advice. I think I'll probably just buy from my local ceramic shop and start mixing my own. It seems to be the most economical and easiest way to go!

I've been using Hi-Fire (was given to me) and was a bear to scrape off my kiln shelves when it finally started to chip; but it did stay on for many, many firings. I use it on my molds as well, and it works great. I'm almost out, and have some Primo on hand, and wondered if it worked the same, or if ...

What are the main differences between Primo and Hi-Fire shelf primer? I know that you can fire higher with the hi-fire, but do you have to re-apply it each time -even on molds? Please enlighten me