WarmGlass.com

Have you considered "Hang Your Glass"? I've used them on a few pieces with success.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Years ago I repaired a dryer heating element by bolting the ends together using a small bolt(screw) and nut, erector set size. It held for a long time. Of course the dryer element doesn't get as hot as the kiln but I believe it is the same sort of material. For an emergency fix it might work. Jim &q...

The old version of thinfire would shrink and curl up. Which may be the cause of your problem since your pieces are small.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Marty wrote:
I have had nothing but positive encounters, encouragment and friendly support from Bullseye in the approximately 20 years that I've been using their glass.

Likewise.

Jim

The name of the process is "vitrigraph" and I don't think it is possible with a front loading kiln. I don't think you need fear the pot exploding. More likely it will cool rapidly past the point where any glass will flow. As it continues to cool it will begin to crack and break apart possi...

Exceptional work. Congratulations!

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Check out the Husky at HD that is also in the $500 range but uses 120vac. I've been using it for a couple years now and find nothing wanting. I picked it over the 240vac version because it is movable and (more importantly) it is quieter, so say the ratings. I only do a moderate amount of sandblastin...

Thanks everyone for the nice comments especially noting the precision of the work. I'm not much of an artist but I am proud of the craftsmanship involved. Wow! Marty, that piece goes back many years. It was a very limited edition made as a reward for the sorters in one of the magless exchanges. You ...

In a recent glass working season (winter in AZ) I made a number of variations of this design. They are all 12 inch squares with a square drop in the center. The starting point is the cut pieces of screen melts combined with, what I hope are, pleasing color surrounds and accents. Jim "The Hobbyi...

One of the things I did this past winter (glass working season in AZ) was play around with the Karl Harron deep drop molds. After some missteps I think I finally have learned the procedure, at least the basics. However, as soon as I feel confident I totally blow one. So far I have about a dozen or s...

The bottom.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

It was my mother's favorite color. It went out of production years ago but I made it my quest to acquire a bunch. She's passed and I still have a lot left, mostly thin and a couple halfs with irid. It's a luscious deep pink/purple/plum. It is very close to Cranberry Pink 1311. It too was a striker a...

No problem except getting the disc centered.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Have you dressed the blade recently?

Jim

I always hold my melts at around 1500 F for about 45 min to an hour.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

I've been using the Result blade from HIS for years and am very pleased. However, I don't do drops so I have not used it in your situation.

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Use a ceramics kiln.

Jim

Not if it was #1 above. Sometimes taking glass to such high temperatures, as in melts, can cause the chemistry to change and one or more of the glass(es) used becomes incompatible. Reds and oranges are the most problematic but I'm sure it is possible with others. I've had this happen twice. The firs...

Two other possible culprits:

1) Compatibility shift during melt

2) Poorly annealed

Jim "The Hobbyist"

Put one on each side.