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Reactions do intensify with additional firings/heatwork. Take Opaline, for instance: it'll slightly opacify with a single firing, but become more and more opal with additional firings. I believe Bullseye has other tip sheets besides this one: http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/get-a-reaction...

Can you simply flip it and use the other side?

If not, JenKen kilns sells a patch compound for their fiber kilns, which I've used before. I'd contact Mike and ask about it.

Yes, you want to scrape everything off because believe it or not, little 'islands' of old wash will show up as texture on the back of your work. I use a razor paint scraper, and clean my 21" square shelves in a couple minutes each (it's handy to have several shelves, so you can do this in a bat...

Can't add anything that Marty didn't cover, except to say that when I've experienced a bit of spalling, it hasn't occurred at a temp where the bits become embedded in my glass. I usually open the kiln, panic at the bits scattered about, then sigh with relief as I realize they aren't attached.

Sure seems like there's a lot of trouble with these molds! By not having any frit in the center, and then placing two Tekta rounds on top, you essentially created a large air space, that had nothing other to do than blow a bubble. Follow Brad's suggestions, and for the next one, try a design where y...

You can get black flexible grout but that's assuming the glass is mounted to something I believe.

A friend just returned from vacationing in Italy where she bought a piece of Murano glass. The backside is sandblasted, and the surface is shiny. Included in her purchase (from the gallery) was a note saying she needed to apply Vaseline and rub it into the piece every few months. The note didn't exp...

Yes, it is 4 pieces of glass: two on top, two on the bottom and the seam for both layers was in the same place. Was that stupid maybe? I wouldn't go so far as to use the word stupid, but there's no need for the top layer to be two pieces, especially since you're placing a decal on top. The top laye...

You'll want to post your full schedule in order to get the best help.

How far is your glass from the top element?
How tall is your stainless mold?

This is a simple design that could've easily been accomplished in a single firing. Assuming your glass is compatible, create the base with the black and clear, then cap it with the clear. The green design element should not be sandwiched between the layers of glass (that encourages bubbles; it's ref...

Jerry, a photo and type of glass used would be really helpful, as oftentimes layup contributes to large bubbles forming (I'm thinking volume control). Also, was it just a single layer of glass with the fruit shapes here and there on top? Again, that would be problematic with only a single layer base...

Spectrum (or any completely smooth, flat glass like Uroboros Machine Rolled) is more prone to bubbles if you're not using a good bubble squeeze because lack of texture means there's no room for air to escape. You'll need to post your schedule so people can help trouble shoot. Some people find siftin...

Finally saw your message and have sent you two PMs

I think I've got belts that would fit that! I purchased from someone else, thinking they'd fit mine but they're much too small. Message me if you're interested and I'll measure them.

I must be missing something here. Are the white bubbled pieces the backs of the other photo? If so, I'd just slump them, learn, and move on. Drying your glass has nothing to do with the bubbles you've got. As was pointed out, you need a good bubble squeeze in your schedule. Unlike the other two post...

Why wouldn't you look?

I'm not suggesting throwing the door open and reviewing every square inch of your piece, but cracking the door a little and taking a quick glance won't be an issue.

I've had inexpensive kiln shelves from a pottery store that were ok. You have to take a straight edge with you to make sure they're flat.
But my favorite shelves are the ones that Bullseye sells; flat, smooth, and perfect.

Jeremy Scidmore teaches a kiln building class here in Northern California. I believe it's about $1650 and each student makes a GL-24 equivalent kiln.

Here's the link; registration closes October 16:
http://www.publicglass.org/#!iv-designs/ckso

I think it would be really helpful to be able to watch what is going on since I'm learning. Or, you could do what many of us do: open the door (slowly!) a tiny bit and peek! I know there are lots of temperatures where you're not supposed to do that, but I've been peeking inside my kilns for over 15...

Others with more experience my join in but as far as I can tell, there's no reason you can't use it for glass (and ceramics too, if you want to make your own molds at some point). Many people are using pottery kilns for glass, and they don't have the benefit of the controller you've got. Paragon off...