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I understand if some glazes aren't fired correctly, they can leech chemicals into food, but that can easily be corrected by always capping the design with glass.

Well... celery is a good color... right?

Roy,
Your kiln died? Ah... sad panda.
Get that bad boy fixed. It's much cheaper to fix a kiln than buy a new one.
What's the problem with the kiln. Many times a repair is quite cheap.

1) You didn't program an anneal into your firing? Well, that screwed up your piece. 2) Unknown COE glass? That's why the red went opaque. It's not formulated to go to high temps, and reds/ oranges are prone to turn opaque. You can cast at lower temperatures. I cast at 1465. Also, use tested Fusible ...

Thank you very much

For POP, yeah it's a one time mold. But, you got your plastic positive. You can always make more molds.
We cast bottle glass in the school pottery kiln at Cone 05. After the fire, those molds are toast.

Very nice. What's the size?

I understand many people hate bubbles, but I love them. They add character to the piece.
Just my 2 cents.

I hope you post an update. I'm interested in your progress.
I love working with float and window glass.

Jim said Cone 015 for BE glass. Window and bottle glasses need more heat.

I make my own kiln wash. I use 20% EP Kaolin, 80% Alumina Hydrate. Even with that, I have had sticking at Cone 05.
I know when they make African Powder beads, they have a lot of sticking. They wash the beads in a sand/water slurry.

Are you wanting to make something like the African Bottle Beads? If so, you should crush your glass until its powder. If you're expecting your frit to smooth out like fusing glass, that will never happen unless you hit really high temps - like 2000 Fahrenheit. At least, that has been my experience. ...

Are you wanting them all to be uniform? If not, I just fill until the glass is heaping over.

Are you sure your thermocouple is reading correctly?
Whatever the case, maybe hit your target temp for only 5 minutes?

No, posting here is fine.

How long did you hold at 750?

Maybe look into doing a vitrograph pull with the glass? If you're wanting a large quantity of glass stringer, that method would work better.
Search the archives here for how to do that.

I kiln wash once a month, or so, I never remove the old wash because I like the texture I get on my glass.

I think you're firing too hot for just slumping. I hit 1350 for a float glass slump.

3" is the thickness. I am sawing through 3" of glass, 10" or so inches in length.
Yeah, I'd doing pattern bars (see pics above).

When I cut my glass blocks, I'm cutting through at least 3" by 6" to 10" inches in length.