WarmGlass.com

Many metal clay artists use the jooltool for polishing, and some of those incorporate fused glass into their work. If you don't get an answer here you might want to join one of the metal clay lists and ask there (for instance, there is a metal clay artist group on yahoogroups).

Dana W.

A nice book to have. Gives you lots of options:

http://warmglass.com/printmaking/

Dana

Your work is beautiful, and the execution is amazing. I can't imagine how you go about thinking about the layup of the glass to achieve the results you get. I think it must require thinking sideways and inside out :mrgreen: . Sort of like the Navajo Yei rugs that are woven "sideways". Dana...

Get a copy of Jody Danner Walker's book about printing techniques on glass. One of the techniques in the book would work better than decals, IMO. If you are wanting to do pieces of any size, I think the decals might be problematic (cracking, stretching, bubbling...). All that said, I've only used sm...

Here is my experience, and there's also info on the Helios web site (where I "copied" the idea from and that I link to in my blog post): http://jestersbaubles.blogspot.com/2010/10/capturing-fall.html FWIW, there won't be much difference in your thickness of the glass itself because of the ...

Keep shipping costs in mind. Ther dealers have already factored that in for you; if you order direct you will have to add on packing and shipping, and probably insurance, too. I have found it significantly cheaper to buy wholesale, even when considering shipping costs (for instance, when I buy an 8...

If you are set up as a small business, try to set up a wholesale account with one of the regional distributors (if you can find one). The pricing you can get at wholesale will be less expensive than your local glass dealer (it probably won't be the same discount they get because of the volume, but i...

Here is System 96's color chart:

http://system96.com/GlassTables/System96Glass.html

Sea green might work.

Dana

If the glass won't fit in the kiln, will the mold fit in the kiln?

In general, you can put smaller pieces of glass in molds with successful results.

Dana W.

I recommend grinding after the first firing, if the edges need to be straightened up.

Dana W.

IMO, my kiln, my experience, etc etc, and everything I've read, 900 for your first hold it a little too low. You didn't mention what kind of glass (or maybe it got lost in the noise about who reads what books), but Spectrum suggests 1100 these days.

Dana W.

There are also people who sell custom decals on Etsy. I believe some folks even offer color (as opposed to the BW images with photo fusing paper from fusing suppliers, such as Delphi Glass).

Dana W.

I have seen a video (or better photos) of this technique somewhere else... the Bullseye subscription education site? Can't remember... Anyway, in that video they show designing the cutout so that, using a ring saw, you begin at an edge and cut the design all in one piece.

Dana

There is an excel spreadsheet on fusedglass.org that I find quite useful: http://www.fusedglass.org/tools/excel_glass_firing_calculator I like that I can put in my schedule, put in the time to start, and know what's going to be happening when (without having to calculate it myself, lazy, I know...)....

I'm sure you've seen this, but I'll post it anyway

http://www.bullseyeglass.com/images/sto ... _glass.pdf

Unfortunately, they don't tell you what reaction to expect, so it doesn't answer your specific question.

Dana W.

You didn't say what kind of dam you are using. In a class, I have used a few layers of fiber paper strips to dam a smaller piece, and while this works well, you have to be careful about combing too close to the edges.

Dana W.

Wow. That would totally end my relationship with EH. And funny that you mentioned the pin-thing for the heating element--that's my biggest peeve about my Skutt...the pins fall out, along with brick grit. Very frustrating. AND also funny that you mentioned Paragon; since we have been discussing the ...

I have the Inland swap top -- bought it cheap off the local classifieds for the saw. It's a toy compared to my Glasstar. I figure it will be an adequate grinder (standard grinder, not lap - edited DAW) if my current one ever dies. It would be ok for lapping cabs, but not larger pieces. Notice that t...

Brock wrote:I don't think you want to try to grind pieces bigger than your lap. Asking for trouble . . .

It's difficult, if not darned near impossible, not to get ridges on the edges if your glass is rectangular or square. Round works just fine .

Dana

I know nothing about this service, but you might want to take a look at GoPago: http://gigaom.com/2012/08/07/gopago-repositions-itself-as-a-free-square-rival/ Seems like an unsustainable business model to me, but... It's free. What the heck! I am set up with Square and LOVE it. But if you don't have...