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Full Fusing Spectrum and testing Float at same time.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 2:20 am
by tom suter
I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. :?: Thanks Tom

Re: Full Fusing Spectrum and testing Float at same time.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 5:54 am
by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
tom suter wrote:I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. :?: Thanks Tom


2 get a good compat test U realy need the glass realy soft n rounded

Near flattened is best

I think float is higher temp than spectrum and not as flowy

Image

Re: Full Fusing Spectrum and testing Float at same time.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 10:10 am
by Bert Weiss
tom suter wrote:I am getting ready to do a full fuse with some spectrum. I just bought some 1/4" float that I want to see if it is going to be compatble with some of my float frit and confetti before I do this other project. Seeing how I will only be going up to 1465 for the Spectrum, will this be high enough to see if the float will be compatible. I know this will only be a good tack fuse but will it be good enough to findout if the frit will work on the float or will I need to go to a full fuse on the float to see if I will have any problems. :?: Thanks Tom


Tom

I often work around 1465 to fuse and texture float glass. You won't get a full flat fuse with your frit it will sit on top, but the glass will fire polish and texture nicely. 1/4" will likely devit so use some borax spray.

Bert

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 11:24 am
by Glenda Kronke
I have some left over glassblowing powders (krugler) that I have had good and bad results with. I usually go to around 1450 with a very light dusting. Some colors crack like crazy and other colors have blended quite nicely without any 'visible' signs of incompatability- but I don't have one of those polorized filters to acutally test it. Some pieces are more than 5 years old and have shown no signs of crazing (yet). *I have much better luck with Starphire glass being compatable with the Krugler powders at a much higher temp (1475)- I think the COE is closer than float's COE.
glenda

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 1:28 pm
by Bert Weiss
Glenda Kronke wrote:I have some left over glassblowing powders (krugler) that I have had good and bad results with. I usually go to around 1450 with a very light dusting. Some colors crack like crazy and other colors have blended quite nicely without any 'visible' signs of incompatability- but I don't have one of those polorized filters to acutally test it. Some pieces are more than 5 years old and have shown no signs of crazing (yet). *I have much better luck with Starphire glass being compatable with the Krugler powders at a much higher temp (1475)- I think the COE is closer than float's COE.
glenda


Glenda

Do you have problems with Starfire with tin bloom and or devit? I have never used it, but have been made aware of problems from a PPG engineer who was involved in developing the formula for manufacture. It is formulated to be tempering friendly, not slump friendly.

Bert

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 2:06 pm
by Glenda Kronke
We slump Starphire all the time (except for a few years back when it wasn't available-plant problems?) We always slumped with tin down and used Fusemaster clearcoat never had a problem. We slump into SS and over SS to make lighting fixtures. We always blast the inside of the fixture for that nice white frosted look so I don't recall if devit on underside. Slumping anywhere between 1325 and 1385 depending on shape. We have also fused it without any problems with devit using clearcoat overspray.
glenda

Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2003 1:46 am
by Bert Weiss
Glenda Kronke wrote:We slump Starphire all the time (except for a few years back when it wasn't available-plant problems?) We always slumped with tin down and used Fusemaster clearcoat never had a problem. We slump into SS and over SS to make lighting fixtures. We always blast the inside of the fixture for that nice white frosted look so I don't recall if devit on underside. Slumping anywhere between 1325 and 1385 depending on shape. We have also fused it without any problems with devit using clearcoat overspray.
glenda


Sandsblasting goes a long way towards removing scum and schmutz.

froggy boy