Kiln installation guidance please

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Franci
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:13 am
Location: Pacifica, California
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Kiln installation guidance please

Post by Franci »

Hi there -

I will likely be purchasing a Paragon GL-24ADTSD Glass Fusing Kiln in the near future and I am getting my garage set up as a studio workspace so want to make sure I make the proper allowances for the kiln in the layout.

I understand that there needs to be 12" clearance on all sides (minimum) when the kiln is in operation. Also I've read that the kiln shouldn't be near any heat conductive materials - metal. One spot I was considering putting the kiln is next to the stacking washer and dryer - but I am concerned about the heat near these appliances. A second choice would put it near the front of the garage - my concerns there are that it may be a drafty spot being near the roll up door and that it would be near the electrical panel for the house. Are these appropriate concerns?

I see that the kiln stand is available with casters so I was thinking that the kiln could have a "parking space" anywhere in the garage if I could roll it out away from everything when I wanted to operate it. I am female, relatively strong but not the bionic woman - is the kiln reasonably mobile on the stand with casters? The entire floor is cement and of course I would not have my car in the garage when the kiln is operating.

I would greatly appreciate any guidance you can offer.

Thank you!
Ron Bell
Posts: 45
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 12:31 am
Location: Middleburg, Florida

Post by Ron Bell »

Hi Franci... I don't see a problem with either location. The kiln won't bother either your washer/dryer or power panel. One consideration is to have the kiln as close to the power outlet as possible. Longer power cords eventually translate to increased power bills. The other things I would suggest are: first a level if it is going to be on casters (the results from an out-of-level kiln are obvious) and the second thing is to make sure that the casters are the kind that you can lock once it is in position. Good luck!
Ron Bell
Black Creek Glass
Tracy
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2003 7:23 pm
Location: Lexington, South Carolina

Post by Tracy »

Franci-

I'm not sure this will help you very much, but I keep my kiln on the screened in porch. It is 12" away from the inside wall and I have it sitting on 12" tile block. I also keep it covered with a waterproof tarp when not in use. Good Luck!

-Tracy
Mike Byers
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Location: west central Indiana
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Post by Mike Byers »

Having the kiln on casters is a definite advantage, and if you can build your own mobile stand (or know someone who can do this for you), then you can have the kiln at the height you want which will make it easier to load and save wear and tear on your back. When I built the stand for my GL24 I used locking casters that also have screw adjustments that make it easy to level the kiln. My stand is made from 2x10s and plywood, with sheet metal that covers the top of the stand. I'm not sure the sheet metal is necessary, as the top of the stand doesn't seem to get very warm. If you plan on installing a vent in your kiln, you can make a removable piece of plywood that fits into a window. I used flexible aluminum clothes dryer vent pipe for this.
Phil Hoppes
Posts: 298
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 2:20 pm
Location: Overgaard, AZ

GL24

Post by Phil Hoppes »

Ditto on much that has been said. I have a GL24 on a custom made stand that is on casters. It is a definite plus to be able to move it around. A few points however. This is HEAVY, like 400lbs or close to it if you believe the Paragaon documentation. You can move it but it takes a good umph to get it moving. From that perspective, locking or not locking casters I think are kind of a moot point. It's not going to roll by itself unless your garage looks like downtown San Fransisco. You want good castors. When it sits for a long while in one spot, rubber castors will develop a small "flat" which will bump when you roll them. (Mine are rubber, heavy duty, but rubber and I noticed this last time I had to move it around.) If you get a custom cart, make sure they put the castors on a bolt mechanism that will allow you to level your kiln once in place. The height is key. I had my son build mine so that the bottom of the kiln is just below shoulder height. This way I do not have to bend over to load and unload the kiln. I switched to rigidized fiberboard shelves for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the weight of a fully loaded mullite shelf. (Another is good luck in finding a truly flat mullite shelf that fits a 24" Paragon. Legend has it that they exist although I have no idea where.) I keep mine in my studio by the rollup door. The ventilation is not a bad thing, in fact a little breeze should help cool it a little better. When you buy your kiln, be sure and get the fiber top option. This keeps the falling particles to about zero.

Phil
Franci
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:13 am
Location: Pacifica, California
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Post by Franci »

Hi there -

Thank you all for this great input - although it should have been obvious I didn't consider the level issue - the garage does have a slight slope so will definitely need to be able to level the beast. Looking forward to moving from the research/planning phase to the execution phase!

- Franci
charlie
Posts: 961
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:08 pm

Post by charlie »

Franci wrote:Hi there -

Thank you all for this great input - although it should have been obvious I didn't consider the level issue - the garage does have a slight slope so will definitely need to be able to level the beast. Looking forward to moving from the research/planning phase to the execution phase!

- Franci
i put a piece of plywood on a furniture dolly so that i could move it around. i then placed the kiln stand on the plywood, and the kiln on the kiln stand.

i have a piece of thick steel, about 10" wide, with a 1" lip such that it makes a very shallow L shape. i put this under one of the legs of the kiln stand and by moving it in or out a little, can level the kiln. since it is so shallow, i can adjust the steel L a lot, but it doesn't affect the height change very much leading to a pretty accurate leveling mechanism.
Cindy next door
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Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 12:54 pm
Location: Mesa, Arizona

Post by Cindy next door »

I was nervous about the heat also, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. I put fire retardant drywall on the wall areas around the kiln, just to be safe.

Cindy next door
Cindy next door
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