jewelry/cab ?
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jewelry/cab ?
Hey guys, What kind of touble am I going to get into? I am interested in making some cabs for my daughters fastpitch softball team that has been together for five years and finally won their league championship!!!!Yeah for us. Anyway, I thought I'd make a blank using the colors of the team and some dichroic, then cutting the blank into the size cabs I need, fire polishing them and the gluing them to the great bails I got from Glass Orchids. What can I expect to happen to the cut edges? Thanks ahead of time, Ann D
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Jane Lindell
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:36 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
- Contact:
Ann:
In my kiln I have good luck getting a fire polish at 1200. I sometimes throw them in around a larger piece I am slumping.
After I cut (saw) the cabs or barrettes, I clean them thoroughly and apply borax to the edge only. They come out edge polished and with straight vertical sides but without the sharp edges anymore.
Try cutting up a reject piece and test for the equivalent temperature in your kiln.
Jane
In my kiln I have good luck getting a fire polish at 1200. I sometimes throw them in around a larger piece I am slumping.
After I cut (saw) the cabs or barrettes, I clean them thoroughly and apply borax to the edge only. They come out edge polished and with straight vertical sides but without the sharp edges anymore.
Try cutting up a reject piece and test for the equivalent temperature in your kiln.
Jane
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Linda Hassur
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2003 10:40 pm
borax on edges of cabs
What is the reason for the borax? Are you talking about the stuff you use for laundry? Linda
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Jane Lindell
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:36 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
- Contact:
Borax and water solution are a devitrification prevention tool - take a look at the "Make your own" section in the tutorial above.
From what I have read, the borax acts as a flux, it makes the glass soften at a lower temperature. For me, it seems to help keep the edges from clouding up with devit after the saw/grinder. 1200 degrees is below the typical devit range, but in this case maybe the flux lowers the temp necessary for the light firepolish.
From what I have read, the borax acts as a flux, it makes the glass soften at a lower temperature. For me, it seems to help keep the edges from clouding up with devit after the saw/grinder. 1200 degrees is below the typical devit range, but in this case maybe the flux lowers the temp necessary for the light firepolish.
i use black waterproof sandpaper. rub each cut side on the wet sandpaper, on a hard surface like the kitchen counter. it won't take much to clean it up. when you fire polish them, they should look fine, especially if your base color is black. i have not needed to use the borax because my top layer is entirely dichro on clear, and devit doesn't happen with what i'm doing.