I have drilled holes in a large red transparent glass...wanting a polka-dotted effect........bottom layer is clear. Questions...1) Will the holes close up when I fuse it and if so, how can I keep that from happening? 2) This will be slumped as a deep bowl and I would like some design to show on the undeerside of the bowl - would I put my design facing down between the two layers of clear and red?
I adore those with patience for over-zealous newbies..............
I also invested in Graham Stone's book and dont know how to decipher his firing schedule for BE Glass...for Jen Ken kiln.........anyone able to help me out with this......much appreciated!!!!
rj wrote:Questions...1) Will the holes close up when I fuse it and if so, how can I keep that from happening? 2) This will be slumped as a deep bowl and I would like some design to show on the underside of the bowl - would I put my design facing down between the two layers of clear and red?
I adore those with patience for over-zealous newbies..............
I also invested in Graham Stone's book and dont know how to decipher his firing schedule for BE Glass...for Jen Ken kiln.........anyone able to help me out with this......much appreciated!!!!
In theory (and according to Graham), holes will close up if they are smaller in diameter than 1/2 the thickness of the glass. One way to keep a hole to a desired size is to fill the hole with a small amount of fiber paper befire firing. A second way is to tack fuse rather than full fuse.
There are lots of ways to achieve a design showing on the underside, all depending on the specifics of your piece and the particular look you want. From your description of the design (red transparent with holes), then any combination with clear should result in the design being seen from both sides. Be aware that if you put the red transparent in the middle of two pieces, the holes will likely trap air. (BTW, a third way to keep the holes in place).
Regarding Graham's book, the schedules are mostly the same for any glass, with the exception of the annealing temperatures for each glass. For Bullseye, Graham uses an annealing temp of 950F, Bullseye currently recommends either 955 or 960 (depends on what you read). Take your pick -- all will work for most applications. Finally, the schedules are not kiln specific, and should only be used as a good starting place. If you have a specific question about one of Graham's schedules, let me know the specific one and I can help you interpret it.
rj wrote:I have drilled holes in a large red transparent glass...wanting a polka-dotted effect........bottom layer is clear. Questions...1) Will the holes close up when I fuse it and if so, how can I keep that from happening? 2) This will be slumped as a deep bowl and I would like some design to show on the undeerside of the bowl - would I put my design facing down between the two layers of clear and red?
I adore those with patience for over-zealous newbies..............
I also invested in Graham Stone's book and dont know how to decipher his firing schedule for BE Glass...for Jen Ken kiln.........anyone able to help me out with this......much appreciated!!!!
If you take the piece to full fuse, the holes will close up in one way or another...the red my run into the holes or sometimes they might stay clear where you drilled, but the piece will end up flat. It depends on how big the holes are and how hot you fire.
You can fill the holes with bits of fiberpaper, but you might not like the messy results.
A very low fire polish would keep the holes open, but won't fuse it together...
Stephie wrote:What about putting clear frit in the holes?
Good idea! I'd go one further and first make small beads, so that they're round.
To make beads of different sizes, just sprinkle some coarse/large frit on the shelf and fire to fusing temp. Don't let the frit grains touch each other.
To make beads all the same size, cut strips and then cut the strips into pieces so you get small squares. When fired for fuse temps, they will bead up. I use 1/8" strips, but strips of different sizes will give different size beads. You can stack the squares for larger beads.
are these holes through the clear layer too? somewhere recently someon posted a picture of a lattice bowl that was made with strips. on fusing the square holes fused into round ones. this was then slumped into a shallow bowl mold and gives the appearance of a swiss cheese bowl.
The bottom is clear glass without holes........top is red which I so carefully and tediously drilled about 10 holes 1/4" diameter.........want to keep them from closing for light reflecting thru and for polka dotted affect. Thanks for all your input.......could I also just cut same size out of clear and drop into holes?........Brad thanks and I will contact you when I have my book next to me Thanks in advance.
