Hiya Kids, I need some information please...Im just starting out with the mica powders and I have seen many styles in various glass objects. I use BE and would like to mix the powders and spray them on with a small atomizer or mister.....other than the "medium" that comes with the powders I purchased and the hints of flat 7-UP, is there anything else I need to know about mixing the powder with water and "medium" to be able to use it to hand spray?
btw, Mr. Walker, your book is more than outstanding and I have recommended it to any and all who have asked me what books they should read to get started with fusing....
gotta run now, the tide is out and there is more than a few tidepools to explore tonight before the sun sets.
be well and thanks everyone for helping
catamont
Mica Powders One More Time
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
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glassconfusion
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Avery Anderson
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Jerry
Mica
A process I've used successfully is to forget the Klyr fire and use isopropel alcohol! The alcohol dries on contact and leaves a smooth, even coating of the mica.
I experimented with the number of coatings I needed and arrived at (drum roll, please) FIVE. I used Spectrum series 96 transparent red and flat fused the mica to 1400. Then I was able to slump the coated piece into a bowl mold. Sold both in a short time so I'm not the only person that liked them.
I experimented with the number of coatings I needed and arrived at (drum roll, please) FIVE. I used Spectrum series 96 transparent red and flat fused the mica to 1400. Then I was able to slump the coated piece into a bowl mold. Sold both in a short time so I'm not the only person that liked them.
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Tony Smith
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Jerry,
The only problem I can see with using straight isopropyl alcohol as your medium is that you are now creating a serious fire hazard. I'm sure atomized alcohol could make quite a fireball... albeit an invisible one.
Tony
The only problem I can see with using straight isopropyl alcohol as your medium is that you are now creating a serious fire hazard. I'm sure atomized alcohol could make quite a fireball... albeit an invisible one.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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Jerry
Fireball
Tony,
Ahhhhh, THAT'S what happened to my eyebrows. And all this time I thought I'd been standing too close to my torch.
Of course the hazard is there and I thank you for pointing it out. Because of all the other contamination in my kiln area, I always have some sort of ventelation going that disperses the fumes. Your point is well taken, however, since a spark from the compressor could ruin my day.
Thanks,
Jerry
Ahhhhh, THAT'S what happened to my eyebrows. And all this time I thought I'd been standing too close to my torch.
Of course the hazard is there and I thank you for pointing it out. Because of all the other contamination in my kiln area, I always have some sort of ventelation going that disperses the fumes. Your point is well taken, however, since a spark from the compressor could ruin my day.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Barbara Cashman
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Avery, I looked in the archives, but didn't really find my answer. What, exactly, is the ratio of mica powder to klyr-fire (or any other medium)?Avery Anderson wrote:You might want to serach the archives. There is a plethora of information on micas. Basically, for an even coating, you need to airbrush them and the medium of choice is Klyr Fire. Apply multiple thin coats and fire to about 1380.
Avery
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Avery Anderson
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Hi Barbara:
I can't really give you exact ratios because it depends on the humidity and weather, believe it or not. When teaching in AZ, I had to mix the micas to a fairly waterly consistency in order to spray them before the nozzle of the airbrush clogged (due to the extreme dryness). In DC, and most other places, I mix them to a creamy consistency....sort of like yogert. Not very scientific, I know. The basic idea is to airbrush many thin coats of a heavy mixture and apply them so they are almost dry the minute they touch the glass. In order to do this, you need to adjust your airbrush so you have more air to medium being dispersed.
Avery
I can't really give you exact ratios because it depends on the humidity and weather, believe it or not. When teaching in AZ, I had to mix the micas to a fairly waterly consistency in order to spray them before the nozzle of the airbrush clogged (due to the extreme dryness). In DC, and most other places, I mix them to a creamy consistency....sort of like yogert. Not very scientific, I know. The basic idea is to airbrush many thin coats of a heavy mixture and apply them so they are almost dry the minute they touch the glass. In order to do this, you need to adjust your airbrush so you have more air to medium being dispersed.
Avery