Studio Design

[Alecia Helton]

With a new coffin kiln on order, I'm taking this opportunity to consider designing my 400 square foot garage studio rather than just piece-mealing it as I have so far. So I would appreciate all comments; what you've done right and what you've done wrong.

I've already installed a sink. I'm thinking of standing-height counters so I can keep my grinder and all of my saws out. (Sometimes I put off using them because I don't want to clear off a space to use them.)

All ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,
Alecia

[DonMcClennen]

I suggest lots of counters with cupboards underneath around perimeter and a large 4' x 8' or bigger work table(strong/solid) on casters in the middle of the room. Being able to work on all sides is a real plus.
All of these surfaces become very handy not just for working but for display during participation in local Studio Tours.
Don

[Stephie]

Lots of power outlets. There never seems to be enought or one where you want it.
And LOTS of storage for glass. No matter if you think you have enough for now, you don't.
Steph

[Carol]

Look in the classifieds for used cabinet sales...you can sometimes get them quite cheaply, esp if you're not picky about finish...after all it's a shop, right? I also picked up one of those lazy susan units for lower units for $20. It's round and free standing. Put it on casters and I have a mobile cabinet. I currently plunk my small Skutt on top so it can be wheeled out of the way when not in use. Underneath is stored all my kiln posts, cones, kiln wash, brushes, yada yada yada, so it's always handy.

I want another one for a mobile grinder station so I can pull the grinder around the table after me on a large panel.

C.

[jerry flanary]

Ventilation Insulation. A window to look out of. Natural lights vs. Flourescents. Things on wheels are wonderful.
j.

[Dani]

If you can get your hands on a copy of "Setting Up Shop: The Practical Guide to Designing and Building Your Dream Shop" by Sandor Nagyszalanczy, you'll get lots of great ideas. It's a book for woodshops, but has lots of information applicable to any shop. Thanks to the person who posted the title here a few weeks ago. Gave me a whole new Honey-Do list! And a few things Honey covets, too.

[Terry Ow-Wing]

one thing that I learned as time went by - is needed space for storing finished items, storage space of component of glass pieces and space for shipping materials.

-T

[Mark Hughes]

.....and don't forget a nice thick rubber mat for the floor in front of your cutting table.

[Amy Schleif-Mohr]

One suggestion about outlets. If you have cold working equipment be sure to use GFI outlets.

You might also want to look into an appropriate filter for your drain on the sink. Talk to some ceramic people.

Amy

[Gale aka artistefem]

Easily cleanable cold working area (shower surround wall materials make great wall, tabletop and floor coverings for this work area).

.......and if you cast - a mold mixing area that can be closed off from the main studio when not in use.

A permanent area set up for photography (backdrop, lighting, tripod,etc...)that you can toss a large plastic throw cloth over when not in use.

Everything you need for kiln firing support within a three step distance from the kiln.

In my studio, everything is fair game for the usual and customary studio muck that gets slung around. I've learned over the years how to protect certain muck sensitive things and build other areas to help contain the muck.

Studio muck just happens.......... some days I'm pretty sure I need an assistant just for muck handling - LOL!

[Alecia Helton]

I really appreciate all of the suggestions you've provided. "Setting Up Shop" is on it's way from Amazon.

I hadnh't specifically thought about storage of finished goods, right now everything goes into my trailor, but I won't always being doing retail shows. So storage in the studio is something I should think about.

I'm always tripping over my kiln wash. Where do you keep yours?

Thanks again for your help.

Alecia

[Phil Hoppes]

Not knowing your equipment it is a little difficult to guide but I'm currently setting up my studio and here are a few things I've done plus pointers I've gotten from others.

1) Separate your work areas if possible. Ideally you would want separate areas for the following:

a) Cutting/design/prep
b) Cold working and all grinding equipment
c) Sandblasting area (Keep this away from all things wet if possible. If your sand gets wet it won't flow)
d) Spray area (if you use mica's, Spray A, etc.)
e) Office area
f) Photo area
g) Kiln shelf prep/clean area

2) Good lighting. Natural where you can. I have ceiling lights but I also have 8' fluorescent lights hung right above all work area's.

3) HEPA vacuum for cleaning kiln, dust and all things of powdered glass. Along with this comes good eye and ear and nose protection. Wear that respirator in all grinding activities and when cleaning shelves with used fiberpaper/thinfire.

4) As mentioned, rubber floor mats in all areas where you spend any length of time standing. Your feet and your back will like you for it.

5) Lots of outlets, GFI protected in areas where you work with water (grinders, WBS, etc.)

6) Sump all of your cleaning into buckets except maybe your final rinse and clean. You don't want powdered glass going down the drain.

7) Access to a hose if possible to clean the floor down, wash off things, etc. It's a messy job as they say.

8 If you have the opportunity to seal or paint your garage floor before you get too many things set up it is a good idea. Professional epoxy jobs are pretty expensive, up to $2 - $3/sqft. You can get a reasonable water based epoxy for concrete at Lowe's made by Rustoleum for about $50 that will cover 250 sqft. This will help in cleaning later on.

9) Glass racks. Don't make them too high. I made mine out of 3/4" plywood. You want the bin's at least 6" x 25" x 36" (WxHxL) to accomodate a full sheet of glass (assume you use BE). If not you will want to make your racks large enough to safely hold the number of sheets you expect to have at any time. I got cheap indoor/outdoor carpet and glued that to the bottom of the bins to keep the glass from chipping when I slide it in and out of the bins. You should not have to hold glass over your head to put into or take out of a glass bin. (Do as I say, not as I did.......I didn't find out about this until after I built my bins). The reason for this is if you happen to have a poorly annealed sheet of glass or a stressed or hairline fractured sheet it could crack over your head and shower you with shards which is probably not a good thing.

10) LOTS of storage bins. Depending upon what your work is like these will come in various shapes and sizes. I use lots of frits as well as sheets so I built a "mailbox" type of rack on the back of my workbench that stores all of my frits. I can see all of my colors and types very easily. I use the little drawer holders like you see for workbenches for all of my small scrap and I got larger bins at Staples on wheels for my larger pieces.

11) Wheels are your friend. The more things you can make mobile, the better. It allows you to clean better, change your configuration, etc.

12) Last but probably most important is TUNES... .....If you are like me I GOTS to have my tunes when I'm working!!!!!!!

Good luck,

Phil

[lauren]

i hope she doesn't mind me posting the link, but i think j.savina has a great studio set up. it's more tailored for stained glass work, but i think the organization, storage space, workstations and lighting are great. here's a link to the gallery page: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/vie ... uid=643121 if that doesn't work check out her thread in the picture forum titled 'red dragon fly closeup'

[Alecia Helton]

You've given me lots to think about.

Thanks again.

Alecia