mezzuzahs/waterproof backing

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 10:54 am

hi.... i was wondering what material(s) folks use (or would recommend) for the back of a mezzuzah case? (& if you have no idea what i'm talking about, a sort of a holder or case for attaching a prayer parchment to a doorjamb) -- i'm imagining it would be helpful to have it be fairly water resistant, but thin enough to cut & glue to the back of the holder......???

also curious if anyone has opinions what you've found seems to work/look better for making it hang-able: inserting u-shaped wire hooks between layers (so juts out the top/bottom), or drilling holes in the top/bottom? i've used the u-wires, but am not keen on how the wire's looking thru my cathedral glasses & haven't had too much look drilling holes thru double-thickness glass w/o breaking the drill bit!

thanks, marla

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 11:55 am

marla wrote:hi.... i was wondering what material(s) folks use (or would recommend) for the back of a mezzuzah case? (& if you have no idea what i'm talking about, a sort of a holder or case for attaching a prayer parchment to a doorjamb) -- i'm imagining it would be helpful to have it be fairly water resistant, but thin enough to cut & glue to the back of the holder......???

also curious if anyone has opinions what you've found seems to work/look better for making it hang-able: inserting u-shaped wire hooks between layers (so juts out the top/bottom), or drilling holes in the top/bottom? i've used the u-wires, but am not keen on how the wire's looking thru my cathedral glasses & haven't had too much look drilling holes thru double-thickness glass w/o breaking the drill bit!

thanks, marla

Marla

Sealing the back is a bit tricky. You don't actually want to seal it or condensation will kill the parchment scroll inside. This means that is has to be able to breathe through 2 holes that are placed such that water is not likely to get in.

Silicone is a good sealer/glue. You can back it with any material from glass to sheet metal. Get creative there as it is a design element

You need the right diamond drill bits. There is one with a catchy name for small holes like you need. look on the HIS glasworks website. They sell them.

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 12:22 pm

Bert Weiss wrote:
marla wrote:You need the right diamond drill bits. There is one with a catchy name for small holes like you need. look on the HIS glasworks website. They sell them.

tripple ripple.

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Sun Oct 19, 2003 8:57 am

i took your advice to heart, bert & am having some fun w/ aluminum flashing material....it is sometimes difficult to experiment, tho, when you're not even sure of what's out there, but i'm getting there....

& thanks for the name, charlie; there were a few that sounded funny to me!

marla

Jackie Beckman · Post by **Jackie Beckman** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 1:17 pm

Hi Marla,

I like the ideas you're working on for the mezuzzah back - the thin metal flashing, etc. Just an option to think about -- no back at all. I don't currently use any back plate on my mezuzot. I slump them to form the indentation for the scroll so that they rest flat against the door jam with only an opening at the top to slide the scroll into. The molding of the door acts as the back, in other words. Also, rather than a mounting hole at the top and bottom, or wires, I use two holes near the bottom, (on top of each other with about an inchand a half in between). This keeps them secure and they can't move at all. Email me if this isn't clear, and I'll send a picture.

Good-luck,
Jackie

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 1:47 pm

ok....i'm trying to picture this, and.....yeah, if you could send a picture w/o too much trouble, i'd love to see exactly what you're talking about. you're not saying that the top's completely open, are you? i've been thinking i need the back bc of needing protection from the elements on outside doors & i was afraid that just w/ holes, it'd be hard to get the case completely flush against the door jamb -- folks afraid to hammer nails too hard against glass (esp this group -- probably not too comfortable w/ any kind of hand tool, incl a hammer!)

i've got some pretty silver & gold irid glass that's actually very pretty against the flashing, but it'd be nice to omit that step for altogether for some of them, too...

i really appreciate the advice!

marla

Jackie Beckman · Post by **Jackie Beckman** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 3:15 pm

OK Marla - I'll email a picture. In the meanwhile, yes, the top is open. There is always some sort of overhang that would cover a front door. I've had people from all over the country use them successfully, no matter the weather. Also, I include screws the proper size with the piece, that way even us "Jewish Carpenters" know not to hammer near the glass! [-X Silly girl!

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:50 pm

guess you had to know my dad to fully appreciate the "dilemma" of squarely hitting a nail inserted in a hole in glass....and continuing to do so until said piece of glass is securely mounted.....!

thanks for the pics; never would've thought to put the holes where you have, & couldn't envision what you meant by leaving the top "open." how long are these? they're beautiful; i love the colors & shapes (tho would probably need to clean my bifocals more thoroughly than usual to cut pieces like that!)

marla

Jackie Beckman · Post by **Jackie Beckman** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:35 pm

marla wrote:guess you had to know my dad to fully appreciate the "dilemma" of squarely hitting a nail inserted in a hole in glass....and continuing to do so until said piece of glass is securely mounted.....!

thanks for the pics; never would've thought to put the holes where you have, & couldn't envision what you meant by leaving the top "open." how long are these? they're beautiful; i love the colors & shapes (tho would probably need to clean my bifocals more thoroughly than usual to cut pieces like that!)

marla

At least your dad knew what a hammer was! Mine called a "handyman" for every single thing. When gas stations first went "self-serve" I was sure the old Caddy was on it's very last tank of gas.

The mezuzot in the picture I sent are about 7 or 8 inches and an inch and a half wide. (That "batch" is long gone and the picture is a couple years old, but if my memory serves, that should be about right)

J

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:56 pm

...worked for me, thanks! (now i just need to see what size scrolls our gift shop sells.....probably should've figured that out first!)

& gd, the "caddy" -- what flashbacks you triggered w/ that one....

the closest my dad ever got to tools was to buy a hedge trimmer for us kids to use .... we learned real quickly that it took no time to accidentally cut the cord, but weeks for the hardware store to repair it....

charlie · Post by **charlie** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:27 pm

marla wrote:the closest my dad ever got to tools was to buy a hedge trimmer for us kids to use .... we learned real quickly that it took no time to accidentally cut the cord, but weeks for the hardware store to repair it....

i've been using my skilsaw for years with a duct tape patch on the power cord.

dasi11 · Post by **dasi11** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 3:49 pm

The prayer that goes into a Mezuzzah is called a Klaf. (parchment) They are written by a sofer or scribe. Currently, they are writing on 4" paper and many synagogues are only carrying cases that hold a 4" klaf or bigger. I have heard some reform synagogues still sell the smaller but they are not considered kosher. Each letter must be clear and perfect so no sofer is writting them smaller then 4". I had bought some 3" klafs to carry for customers who bought my covers but soon found out they were no good. Now I only make covers that will hold a 4 or 5" klaf, but I will not carry the Klafs since they run $30+. (for real kosher ones) Anything cheaper has always turned out to be fake. (ie. only on paper or a photocopy)Some people think that is OK, so I leave it up to my customer.

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Fri Oct 24, 2003 11:02 pm

dasi11 wrote: but they are not considered kosher.

If you use system 90 and system 96 in the same kiln is it still kosher???

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 3:29 am

reform rabbi would probably say yes, tho the orthodox are likely to disagree. then again, they're not likely to touch each other.....

Steve Immerman · Post by **Steve Immerman** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 9:18 am

Bert Weiss wrote: If you use system 90 and system 96 in the same kiln is it still kosher???

Not to Lani.

Steve

Jackie Beckman · Post by **Jackie Beckman** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 10:04 am

Bert Weiss wrote:
dasi11 wrote: but they are not considered kosher.
If you use system 90 and system 96 in the same kiln is it still kosher???

I think if one waits 6 hours between firings its OK

. . . but, come to think of it, the kiln probably needs to be fired up as hot as it will go and held for half an hour before you switch glass again.

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 10:14 am

Jackie Beckman wrote: . . . but, come to think of it, the kiln probably needs to be fired up as hot as it will go and held for half an hour before you switch glass again.

That's just what I was thinking. No unkosher elements can survive 900ÂºF Even pork becomes kosher at 900. Ashes to ashes and all.

Somebody will disagree, obviously. That is the tradition.

Steve Immerman · Post by **Steve Immerman** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:42 pm

Is float parve?

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:46 pm

Steve Immerman wrote:Is float parve?

Depends how you cut it. Brock

MarlaS · Post by **MarlaS** » Sat Oct 25, 2003 12:56 pm

..and with which tools it's cut.

WarmGlass.com

mezzuzahs/waterproof backing

mezzuzahs/waterproof backing

Re: mezzuzahs/waterproof backing

Re: mezzuzahs/waterproof backing

thanks, y'all....

thanks, jackie....