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wok trouble

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Dick Ditore
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 12:56 pm
Location: San Diego, Ca
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wok trouble

Postby Dick Ditore » Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:10 pm

Finally tried my new wok. Sandblasted, sprayed with wash. 19" piece of alternating aventurine green, and clear irid. Got a nice even slump, but where the clear contacted the wok, I had rust come through big time. Left big rust marks on the wok, and minor rust on the glass. I assume I need more wash. Any thoughts? Also, what would remove the rust from the glass and not damage the irid?

Thanks,


Dick

Ron Coleman
Posts: 468
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Postby Ron Coleman » Mon Mar 10, 2003 2:03 pm

:idea: Try oxalic acid to remove the rust. It should be available from the hardware store.
Zud Cleanser and Barkeepers Friend have oxalic acid in them and should be available fron the grocery store. You don't need to scrub the surface, just wet it and apply a little powder and let it set.

Ron

Jacques Bordeleau

Postby Jacques Bordeleau » Mon Mar 10, 2003 2:06 pm

Not sure why you would have rust at all if you sprayed on the wash with the wok pre-heated. I spray wash on mild steel molds regularly (outdoors), after sandblasting, and seldom see any rusting. I pre-heat steel forms to around 250 f before coating, and the water in the mix almost flashes dry. This evaporation quickly cools the steel, of course, so I work pretty fast, and when the stuff stops flashing dry I stop spraying, if I haven't already. If I end up with an area that looks damp I use the air gun to dry it until the color looks thoroughly dry. Then I lightly rub the palm of my hand over the wash to smooth the surface, clean it with the air gun (outdoors).... and Voila! Works pretty well for me, anyway.

My best guess is that the wash wasn't really truly dried out, and when you placed the glass in the wok, it trapped humidity and then caused the rusting.

Regards, Jacques

Dick Ditore
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 12:56 pm
Location: San Diego, Ca
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wok

Postby Dick Ditore » Mon Mar 10, 2003 2:44 pm

I did preheat. I used a torch, heated, sprayed and dried. It was totally dry when it went in the kiln.

Dick

Marty
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woks

Postby Marty » Mon Mar 10, 2003 4:26 pm

Try heating it in your kiln (or oven) to 350F- more even heat.
Go to stainless woks (hard to find in larger sizes).

Cynthia

Postby Cynthia » Mon Mar 10, 2003 4:54 pm

Are you sure it wasn't spalling or scale (whichever)? I have a wok that I don't use anymore because it would scale off onto the glass when ever I used it regardless of the separator I used...I tried both boron nitride and kiln wash, applied with an airbrush onto hot steel, sizzle sizzle and dried on contact. I think your problem might have to do with the grade of steel. At least I think that was the problem with mine.

Never found a stainless wok of the size I needed so had a potter throw me a mold to bend into that is like a ball mold or wok but nice and big. I got tired of experimenting and marring the surface of my glass. :roll:

Just a thought,

Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
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Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: UK
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Postby Brian and Jenny Blanthorn » Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:46 pm

Cynthia Oliver wrote:Never found a stainless wok of the size I needed so had a potter throw me a mold to bend into that is like a ball mold or wok but nice and big. I got tired of experimenting and marring the surface of my glass. :roll:

Just a thought,


SS Pudding bowls from the catering industry

My biggest is about 22"

Formaly Slump Boy
Image

Jacques Bordeleau

Postby Jacques Bordeleau » Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:17 am

Cool. I use old woks from the thrift store...$1 apiece..for medium sizes. Orange County Metalworks (Dave, pretty close!) will custom make any size you want up to 20 ft. dia., but they get spendy. They added a $100 setup fee, which made a 24" x 3" deep stainless steel platter mold 1/8" thick run around $200 last go round, shipped .... but it's a lifetime mold and worth it! Still.... I intend to check out the pudding bowls.

regards, Jacques

Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
Posts: 353
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: UK
Contact:

Postby Brian and Jenny Blanthorn » Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:49 am

Jacques Bordeleau wrote:Cool. I use old woks from the thrift store...$1 apiece..for medium sizes. Orange County Metalworks (Dave, pretty close!) will custom make any size you want up to 20 ft. dia., but they get spendy. They added a $100 setup fee, which made a 24" x 3" deep stainless steel platter mold 1/8" thick run around $200 last go round, shipped .... but it's a lifetime mold and worth it! Still.... I intend to check out the pudding bowls.

regards, Jacques


They might have a different name over the pond

But they R used 2 mix stuff like sausage meat n I guess cake stuff etc

MayB even current buns

:mrgreen:
Image

Leslie Ihde

rust and woks

Postby Leslie Ihde » Tue Mar 11, 2003 6:20 pm

I've wondered if the so called rust from woks on clear glass is iron oxide penetrating the glass in vapor form. Maybe that's the same as rust, and I'm new to steel molds- but I run the first slump in a steel mold with a piece of float. The float absorbs the inital "rust". Then it doesn't seem to be a problem in the next firing. Someone wiser correct me if this seems nonsensical. Leslie :?

Larry Cush
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Location: LaQuinta California
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Postby Larry Cush » Wed Mar 12, 2003 2:09 am

I guess Im lucky, I just heat the wok on the stove and airbrush kilnwash on. It seems to stick fine and so far the glass hasnt stuck to it . I do get scaling on the back of the wok as it isnt stainless but it isnt coming thru the wash yet!
Larry


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