Building a Lap Machine

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LesleyNolan
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Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 5:17 pm
Location: Tallahassee FL
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Building a Lap Machine

Post by LesleyNolan »

I am interested in building a machine, or should I say having my husband build one. I have seen the plans on HisGlassWorks and would probably use them. I would love to hear from those who have already done this. Any comments, suggestions, etc.
Thanks
Lesley
Harry
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 2:19 am
Location: Portland OR

Post by Harry »

We build custom lap machines at wholesale prices for artists. We also fabricate all the parts needed for those who want to build their own machines. For information call John at Water Jet Design, Hillsboro OR
503-615-0144 Harry
Ron Coleman
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Post by Ron Coleman »

You can find some pictures and plans at the link below, This is one I built about 2 years ago. It's designed for loose silicon carbide grit and dripping water.

http://mrcol.freeyellow.com/grinder/fla ... rinder.htm

I use it all the time for grinding bowl bottoms. It would be nice if I had diamond pads, but just one pad costs more than my whole grinder.

I just put this page up so if it doesn't work right, let me know.

Ron
LesleyNolan
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Location: Tallahassee FL
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Post by LesleyNolan »

Ron
Thanks very much for your help! This really helps to encourage my husband and I to give this a try. Actually, he is the one who will build it. He is very good at mechanical and electrical stuff!

Thanks for sharing!
Lesley
lauren
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Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2003 9:31 pm
Location: Naples FL

Post by lauren »

ballpark figure how much this would cost? is the wheel the biggest expense?

do you just use the same grit size on it, or do you clean it after every use?

interesting...wish i was the least bit mechanically inclined, but i'm willing to try one day..

thanks for the info

peace
- l
Ron Coleman
Posts: 468
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Post by Ron Coleman »

lauren wrote:ballpark figure how much this would cost? is the wheel the biggest expense?

do you just use the same grit size on it, or do you clean it after every use?

interesting...wish i was the least bit mechanically inclined, but i'm willing to try one day..

thanks for the info

peace
- l
I spent about $200 on mine. My disk was free and I had the motor.

A new disk might be as low as $150. Bearings cost about $25 each for 1 inch bores and the arbor I used for the jack shaft was about $40 including the bearings, shaft and pulley. Other parts came from the hardware store, belts, nuts and bolts.

Ron
lauren
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Location: Naples FL

Post by lauren »

i am intrigued. thanks again.
Marty
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Post by Marty »

Lauren- if you're going to use grit, you'll need a separate machine for each size of grit- you can't just clean the machine and change the grit. That's one advantage of using diamond pads. Marty
Jack Bowman
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Post by Jack Bowman »

Marty wrote:Lauren- if you're going to use grit, you'll need a separate machine for each size of grit- you can't just clean the machine and change the grit. That's one advantage of using diamond pads. Marty
Marty,

Do you use grit or pads? If pads what have you found to be a good source for quality pads? It's a considerable expense and I'd like to get it right the first time.

Jack
Brock
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Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Post by Brock »

Marty wrote:Lauren- if you're going to use grit, you'll need a separate machine for each size of grit- you can't just clean the machine and change the grit. That's one advantage of using diamond pads. Marty
Huh? Until diamond pads came along, that's what we did. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Ron Coleman
Posts: 468
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Post by Ron Coleman »

Marty wrote:Lauren- if you're going to use grit, you'll need a separate machine for each size of grit- you can't just clean the machine and change the grit. That's one advantage of using diamond pads. Marty
Really? I guess I never learned that part.

Rinse the disk, clean the work and grind with the next grit size, works for me. Now, if you happen to get a speck of the old grit on the disk, it's back to square one.

Ron
Marty
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Post by Marty »

Jack- I'm using HIS's diamond pads. Major contributions to the kid's college fund: for 24" diam. 45 grit for roughing- about $850. The finer the diamond, the "cheaper" the pad. And BE glass seems to be really rough on the diamonds.

Ron- I've used grits and multiple machines in a glassblower's shop. Rinse everything, change aprons, and don't sneeze between grits, and we still had occasional contamination. And it's very expensive, time-wise, to go back and re-do the step.

HIS is warning against recirculating the water draining off the plates- he says that diamonds can come loose and hit you just when you thought you were through with the damn polishing. I'm normally only going to 140 and then blasting with 180 so it doesn't affect me much- until I get a piece that needs polishing.....
Jack Bowman
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Post by Jack Bowman »

Thank you, Marty.

I hope to get my lap built this winter. I'm going to use fresh water with a particle trap before the drain.

Jack
Bill J.
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Location: Mayne Island, B.C.
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Post by Bill J. »

Hey all;
Thanks for the link to the site for home built. I am also interested in building a lap wheel for our studio.

What we did in school was use 80 grit to rough grind, then clean everything and use 120. After that we used a separate piece of float glass with each size of abrasive with a litlle dish soap.

In our studio we have an old lapidary polisher which uses 22 7/16" belts for the coark and a felt on the opposite mandrel.

Bill
Bill Jamieson
Vitreous Designs, Mayne Is, B.C.
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