slumping large pc

Sherry Salito-Forsen · Mon Mar 24, 2003 11:25 pm

I'm getting ready to slump over a mold ( drape), it's quite a bit larger than anything I've done so far. It has about a 25" diameter(2 full layers of BE with some areas 3 and 4 layers of BE thin), I'm trying to decide if I should go really slow from 1000 up to slump......or AFAP from 1000 on up. Any ideas??
Thanks for any input,

Sherry

Robert Burrell · Post by **Robert Burrell** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 11:21 am

Slow would probably be better,for a more uniform bend. .
robert

Sherry Salito-Forsen · Tue Mar 25, 2003 11:36 am

Robert,
They are expecting it to look similar to when you drape a piece over a floral former, irregular and freeform....do you still think I should go slow?
Thanks for your response,
Sherry

Bert Weiss · Post by **Bert Weiss** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 12:06 pm

Sherry Salito-Forsen wrote:Robert,
They are expecting it to look similar to when you drape a piece over a floral former, irregular and freeform....do you still think I should go slow?
Thanks for your response,
Sherry

Sherry

If you want it to wrinkle, I would go fast. Be sure to anneal slowly as sometimes the wrinkles touch and cause annealing to go slower.

Bert

Patty Gray · Post by **Patty Gray** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 12:41 pm

Hi Sherry,

Don't go too fast, you can still get the ruffled/wavy look. How far will your glass be from your elements? Top or side elements? Also, what is your mold made of? If you go fast you will pick up more of the mold texture too so that is something to think about.

Have fun.

Patty
http://www.pattygray.com

Sherry Salito-Forsen · Tue Mar 25, 2003 4:49 pm

The pc will be in a kiln using top elements approx 3 1/2 away from top elements ( I hope this will work) I also have side elements in this kiln, but can only use either side or top due to power constrictions...hmm now that I think about it I have to use top elements since I am using the full width of the kiln and the pc would be RIGHT next to elements. As for the mold, I'm thinking it will be stainless. As you can see I'm sort of winging this. I know going up I will be going REALLY slow ( 10 hrs?) once slumped (1150-1250?? depending on look )am planning fast (?) to about 1100 , then 2hrs to 960, 2 - 3 hrs at 960 , then 5hrs to 700. Does this sound OK? Or should I slow it down even further?
Thank YOU all SO MUCH...I LOVE THIS BOARD!!!!
Sherry

Barbara Muth · Post by **Barbara Muth** » Tue Mar 25, 2003 5:00 pm

Wow, 25 inch diameter! How deep is your kiln?

Barbara

Sherry Salito-Forsen · Tue Mar 25, 2003 10:59 pm

Well it WAS only 9" deep, but since I'm working on this project I've ordered an extension for it, which will give me another 9". This project just turned into an add on after I had already made 2 pieces for other spots. The darn decorator talked him into the shape and size....and of couse I NEEDED the $ so I figured OK ....I'll figure out a way to do this! I'm fusing it right now...I had fused it once , but then there were a couple things I wasn't happy with so I stuck it back in....hope it makes it thru this firing.

Robert Burrell · Post by **Robert Burrell** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 9:30 am

Sherry Salito-Forsen wrote:Robert,
They are expecting it to look similar to when you drape a piece over a floral former, irregular and freeform....do you still think I should go slow?
Thanks for your response,

Sherry

I tend to go slow so I can stop it where I want. Helps me to avoid the dreaded touch.
robert

charlie holden · Post by **charlie holden** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 9:40 am

Sherry Salito-Forsen wrote:The pc will be in a kiln using top elements approx 3 1/2 away from top elements ( I hope this will work) I also have side elements in this kiln, but can only use either side or top due to power constrictions...hmm now that I think about it I have to use top elements since I am using the full width of the kiln and the pc would be RIGHT next to elements. As for the mold, I'm thinking it will be stainless. As you can see I'm sort of winging this. I know going up I will be going REALLY slow ( 10 hrs?) once slumped (1150-1250?? depending on look )am planning fast (?) to about 1100 , then 2hrs to 960, 2 - 3 hrs at 960 , then 5hrs to 700. Does this sound OK? Or should I slow it down even further?
Thank YOU all SO MUCH...I LOVE THIS BOARD!!!!
Sherry

That's a very conservative schedule. I slump pieces this size all the time, though my glass is more like eight inches away from the elements and I have air circulation from a vent fan. Slump at 1150 for Bulleye. No reason to go higher unless you want to pick up texture from the mold or fire polish. You don't need the pause between slumping and 960. I schedule in 15 minutes between 1150 and 960, but the kiln takes longer than that naturally. You might also try to switch from top elements to side elements once it has slumped some. I think you'll get a more even heat top to bottom with side elements, unless you've got air circulation.

I would also put some fiber paper between the ss mold and the glass in the areas that they touch before the slump. This lets the glass heat up independantly of the mold. And for a drape I would support the edges of the glass in several places with kiln posts. Once the slump had started I would reach in and knock the kiln posts out of the way. This reduces the strain on the center of the glass over the mold.

Sherry Salito-Forsen · Wed Mar 26, 2003 12:56 pm

Robert & Charlie,
OK slow it is , and Charlie I will change the time between the slump and the anneal. I was thinking that since I was over a mold that I might be hitting the upper end of the annealing range to cover myself. I've used this kiln for 10 or 11 years and still really don't know how even of heat it gets. It makes me nervous doing a pc this size....I've done quite a few 20 -23", but this pc seems SO much larger I'm afraid I'll screw it up....So would rather be as conservative as possible. Thanks again for your help....I know it takes you away from your fusing!
Sherry

WarmGlass.com

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