Need help in how to fire a regular kiln for fusing and slump

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Sande
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 4:42 pm

Need help in how to fire a regular kiln for fusing and slump

Post by Sande »

I am a beginner in fusing and slumping, but would like some help in how to fire a regular ceramic kiln to do the firing myself. Could I use an 018 cone on my conesetter and use a delay at 200 degrees for (?) amount of time?
What would I have to do?

Others have fired for me, but I would like to do it myself. They have ramp speeds and things I do not know about. Thanks everyone that helps me...
Stephie
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 4:59 pm
Location: Creston, CA

Post by Stephie »

Hi Sande,
I also use a ceramic kiln. You can get a pyrometer (sp?) and probe (thermocouple) for less then $100.

I drilled a hole in my peep hole plug to put the probe through. This lets me monitor the temp in the kiln and adjust the infinite switch accordingly.
I think you are going to have to monitor and adjust manually even with cones.

You can get a digital controler to retrofit your kiln if you have the money. Centre DeVerre above has one or they will redo your kilnsitter.

This is where I got the measurement equipment. http://www.omega.com/
Stephie
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
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Post by Dani »

I fuse at 015 or 016 in my Skutt ceramic kiln...use the hotter firing for larger pieces 12 - 20 inches. I only use three shelves. I set my three switches at medium, and just to be safe set the timer at eight hours. Usually the cone drops at about six hours. I don't vent at all, just leave the kiln to cool naturally overnight. I always use overspray to prevent devitrification. I rarely have nasty surprises or mistakes anymore. I use mostly Bullseye glass, but haven't had problems with System 96 either. I slump and cure painting at 018 or 019 depending on the depth of the slump. This technique works well for me up to four layers of glass (which is pushing it a bit). Hope that helps a little. It is certainly dead simple and idiot proof. :wink:
Sande
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 4:42 pm

Will try Cone 015 or 016

Post by Sande »

Thanks Dani for your help......I will try that 015 or 016, in my Skutt....I see that you do not vent. I always left the top plug out for porcelain, until it went to medium firing. Glad to know about not venting. I did not understand what you meant by using overspray to prevent devitrification. I also use Bullseye glass, coefficient of 90. What is the painting you refer to that can be cured at 018 or 019 depending on the depth of the slump. I am interested in the painting, as I always wanted to paint glass, but am clueless. I have only ever fused 3 layers of glass. I look forward to the part of your note that says "dead simple and idiot proof. =^..^=
Lynne Chappell
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2003 2:05 am
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada
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Post by Lynne Chappell »

Is your kiln manually controlled, or does it have a digital controller? The only real difference (except that ceramic kilns will fire higher) between ceramic and glass kilns is that the glass kilns usually have elements in the lid and ceramic kilns never do.

If your kiln is manually controlled, then use the cones for the top temperature shutoff, but you need a pyrometer as it is really advisable to turn the kiln back on low to stabilize the temperature at 950 for a while to anneal the glass.

If it is digital, then you need a firing schedule to put in. We can help with that.
Sande
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 4:42 pm

Post by Sande »

I have two kilns. Didn't know which to use. Yes I have a digital controlled, and it has no wires in the lid. I wondered if I could set it somehow on a delay at the 950 degree spot you speak of for annealing.

How do you use a pyrometer, I guess I will have to get one. Does it go through one of the plug holes?

I do need a firing schedule to work with. I would love someone to tell me that!

Thanks Lynne for your help!
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
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Post by Dani »

My Skutt cools down so slowly that I really don't need anymore firing "schedule" than what I gave you. When I cool down overnight, the kiln and glass are still warm in the morning, so holding for annealing just sort of happens by virtue of the kiln's insulative properties. Every kiln is different and mine is pretty large, so that may be why it takes quite long to heat up and cool down. There's lots of stuff in the archives about painting with Reusches .... I use the highfire blacks to fuse between layers of glass (clear sandwiched on each side of a color) or paint the inside and fire while slumping. Most of my painting is ornamental and often black on black. I use the painting techniques described in the Albinus Elskus book.
Sande
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 4:42 pm

Post by Sande »

Thanks Dani for getting back to me. I can hardly wait to get some of the 015 and 016 cones. I only have the 018 for gold firing on porcelain right now. We had a huge snow storm and I couldn't get out. Have to wait 'til at least Monday. I thought I would have to put the kiln (verylarge) on delay, for the annealing, glad to hear when it shuts off it happens by insulative properties!
I am going to try to find the Albinus Elskus Book you mention. The only painting I have done is with gold. My friends fired it, and it turned out gorgeous! I did it on the BE of dark green. Hurrying to finish ornaments to sell. Ornaments use 3 pcs glass. Been using the hunt and peck system at the Archives and once there the day is gone. I have my first piece to slump and can't wait to see it!!! Thanks for telling me about the Reusches, I am going right there. I guess I should only fire one layer at a time? The kiln can take three shelves high. Should have asked you that before.
Going in to cut more glass and load the kiln. When Monday gets here, I will be ready! Thanks a Million....
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