Using Pattern Bars

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Bruce Larion
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:58 pm
Location: South Carolina
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Using Pattern Bars

Post by Bruce Larion »

I just made my first set of pattern bars 1" x 1" x 5" long. I then cut these length wise on my tile saw to 1/8" thickness. I made a southwest style 10"x10" square panel and added a Navajo design in one corner made from stringers. The piece was 2 layers thick. My issue was the pattern bars. Since I had only made them 5" long I had to use 2 pieces to get acrossed the length of the piece. When it finally cooled and I lifted the lid of the kiln there is a very noticable "gap" where the 2 pieces met. :( Do you have to overlap pieces of pattern bars where they touch? I fired @ 300dph to 1250 hold for 30 min. then 200dph to 1475 -hold for 25min then 9999 to 960 hold for 30min then 100dph to 800 then 9999 to room temp. I had no bubbles and great corners but the pattern bars have a "gap" and a little wavy where they met. Any help is appreciated. I am obviously still VERY new at this.
Bruce
Brock
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Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:32 pm
Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Re: Using Pattern Bars

Post by Brock »

Ideally, you would grind or cut your PBs perfectly square before cutting them into components. Failing that, try cheating with small cut pieces or frits or powders to fill the gaps. Remember, glass contracts before it flows and quite often, gaps will be (very) noticeable. Sometimes you can alleviate this problem just by using a base glass so that the PB' "stick" to it and don't seem to contract as much. You can always add elements and re-fire. Brock

dadll wrote:I just made my first set of pattern bars 1" x 1" x 5" long. I then cut these length wise on my tile saw to 1/8" thickness. I made a southwest style 10"x10" square panel and added a Navajo design in one corner made from stringers. The piece was 2 layers thick. My issue was the pattern bars. Since I had only made them 5" long I had to use 2 pieces to get acrossed the length of the piece. When it finally cooled and I lifted the lid of the kiln there is a very noticable "gap" where the 2 pieces met. :( Do you have to overlap pieces of pattern bars where they touch? I fired @ 300dph to 1250 hold for 30 min. then 200dph to 1475 -hold for 25min then 9999 to 960 hold for 30min then 100dph to 800 then 9999 to room temp. I had no bubbles and great corners but the pattern bars have a "gap" and a little wavy where they met. Any help is appreciated. I am obviously still VERY new at this.
Jack Bowman
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Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 10:52 pm
Location: Utah
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Post by Jack Bowman »

I usually cut my bars to full thickness and check at top temperature to make sure all seams have blended together.

Jack
Kitty
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Location: Gig Harbor, WA

Post by Kitty »

i cut my slices about 3/8" to 1/2" thick. the 1/8" will work better if you put them on another sheet.
Bruce Larion
Posts: 20
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:58 pm
Location: South Carolina
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Post by Bruce Larion »

Thank you all for your advice. I used a solid bottom layer 1/8"(black) then on top were my pattern bar slices 1/8" and I filled in around them with clear. I was trying to be sure I had 1/4 " thickness. I don't believe I had the ends good and square (thanks Brock I will keep a very close eye on that detail) and Jack I was wondering if you check at full temp and the gap is there then what -more time at full temp?
Again thank you for the help. I have only been fusing for about 3-4 months now and certainly keeping good notes, reading as much as I can and this site really helps.
Bruce
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