Page 1 of 1
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2003 8:09 pm
I was wondering if anyone could give me some help.I`ve never used moist pack before and need a little guideance.What is the procedure for using moist pack?Any help would be great.
Thanks for any advice in advance,dave
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 12:02 am
I've used moist fiber a few times and like it. From memory, I've cut it to shape and smashed it into or onto a shape that I've wanted to make a mold of. You have to let it air dry on/in the mold in a warm room at it's own rate, or sometimes the rigidizer evaporates out too fast and areas stay soft and banket-y (bad) even after drying. Allow 5-7 days for 1" thick molds. Protect the moistpack from sticking to your shape by using aluminum foil as a separator. Once it's dry, pre-fire it to instuctions. I then put several coats of kiln wash on it, and sand the kiln wash smooth. You're ready to fire! I have gotten many firings off it, especially ifyou put your mold on it's own shelf and don't handle it much. The more you handle it, the more fragile it gets. Good luck, Susan
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 12:35 am
After you cut to shape, you can squeeze out excess moisture between newspaper. You can also use Pam as a release. After it's dry store it somewhere safe, (my daughter put her finger through mine as she said "what's this"). Have to make a new one.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 6:44 am
Thanks for the help,I`ll have a go at making a mold next week.Seems like a interesting material.Thanks again.......dave
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 7:16 am
Hi Dave -
Like was mentioned, press out excess moisture between newspaper. Exchange wet newspaper for dry and repeat several times. This will allow you to speed dry it with good results. (Wear latex gloves since it is incredibly drying.)
You can form it around something or build a shape without any form. If you cut it and fold pieces in weird positions, you can you can stick high temp wire through and twist to hold in place.
Some people dry it in the kiln at low temps but since there are conflicting reports about whether or not it's a fire hazard, I dry mine on top of my kiln on a metal pan or on top of fire bricks.
After it's dry, you can sand it smooth with fine sandpaper and paint with kiln wash.
With care MoistPack molds will last a very long time.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 1:43 pm
Hi Beth and All--I would NOT recommend sanding the moistpack mold itself, as it is a refractory material and very hazardous to breathe. I hope you are wearing a respirator. It is better to coat with kiln wash first, and sand that (wearing a mask) to shape. S
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 2:44 pm
I sand before applying kilnwash. But I wear an appropriately rated respirator (not paper mask that gives a false sense of security). If I sanded afterwards, then I have kilnwash particles to inhale and would still wear a respirator. Same when cutting fiber paper, carving Kaiser Lee board or cleaning up ThinFire (it's covered with damp paper towels first but I may switch to a sprayer.)
I'm satisfied that the 6200 half face mask with P100 filters (pictured in Brad's book) protects me sufficiently against airborne particles like ceramic fiber and silica. To paraphrase Graham Stone, if it's good for silica dust, it's good for fiber.
For anyone interested, there's loads on this in the old archives - search on P100.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 4:41 pm
Thanks for the info Beth. It sounds like you're well covered. Sorry to act so overworried! I've been disposing of my spend thinfire with a hepa vaccuum+filtering liner. I still wonder though. It's such sneaky stuff. S
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2003 6:12 pm
Another thing to remember about moistpak. It must not be left in a cold enough place to freeze. - Barbara
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2003 3:13 pm
If it is already saturated with rigidizer. you might want to store your moistpak in the refrigerator to prevent mildew.