The return of the glue test... - WarmGlass.com

The return of the glue test...

This is the main board for discussing general techniques, tools, and processes for fusing, slumping, and related kiln-forming activities.

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Tony Serviente
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Location: Ithaca,NY
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The return of the glue test...

Postby Tony Serviente » Tue Dec 09, 2003 3:34 pm

Think I finally got it, after too much effort.

Image

As I posted yesterday, will incorporate the suggestions for the next run. Like the sugar water idea, wonder if my caramel latte dregs would work.

Kitty
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Postby Kitty » Tue Dec 09, 2003 4:11 pm

back in the dark ages, about six years ago, i was using elmer's. everything worked great for about a year or so. then it started leaving a residue. ruined a lot of work, too. mary kay at BE told me to lose the white glue, and i did. but i continued to look into why this happened, and what i found out is that the formula for white glues is not standard, even from the same plant. it can change. so, while it works for awhile, there is always the potential for scum. i stick with klyr fire.

Lou_Ohio
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Location: Highland Heights , Ohio

Postby Lou_Ohio » Tue Dec 09, 2003 10:04 pm

I have also had an intermitted problem with white glues (including emlers).
I use super glue mostly. After a tight assembly , without glue, I place a small drop of super glue at many of the intersection (not all). The super glue burns off completely , is fast setting but if a lot is used it does smell. Works for me

Rebecca M.
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Postby Rebecca M. » Wed Dec 10, 2003 9:09 am

Just out of curiosity, what brand glue stick did you use? I've got about 4 different kinds around here. Some with disappearing colorant and some plain.
I tried the scotch tape on a clear blue rim, and got a perfect outline complete with those little saw marks from the teeny cutter thing. :roll:

Barbara Muth
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Postby Barbara Muth » Wed Dec 10, 2003 10:10 am

Becca wrote:Just out of curiosity, what brand glue stick did you use? I've got about 4 different kinds around here. Some with disappearing colorant and some plain.
I tried the scotch tape on a clear blue rim, and got a perfect outline complete with those little saw marks from the teeny cutter thing. :roll:


Becca you should be able to sandblast those marks off if they are on the surface. If you sandwihed the tape, then you are stuck with it.


I try to avoid adhesives of any kind unless they will be between opal layers. But then I don't do work with a gazillion teeny tiny pieces like Jackies does...... :roll:

Barbara
(aka impatient girl)
Barbara
Check out the glass manufacturer's recommended firing schedules...
LATEST GLASS

Tony Serviente
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Postby Tony Serviente » Wed Dec 10, 2003 11:57 am

Glue stick brand is Avery-Permanent. Going to do a run this weekend of all white glues. I use white for most of my work, as it has the properities I need. The thinner liquids won't do it most of the time. I too have seen huge variability in the residue that white glue leaves, and am willing to believe that the batches from the factory can vary greatly, but I have seen vastly different results from the same bottle. I suppose homogeneity could be an issue, but doubt it. Going to go with variations of drying times as a hunch. Though you can't see it in the image, the scotch tape did leave a perfect, though faint, imprint, complete with tiny teeth.

bkfoltz
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Location: Minnesota

Clear nail polish

Postby bkfoltz » Wed Dec 10, 2003 1:05 pm

have any of you every tried clear nail polish. I was looking at the last issue of glass patterns qrtly and they have snowflakes make out of noodles. They held the snowflake together with nail polish. does nail polish give good results?
KRIS

Dani
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Postby Dani » Wed Dec 10, 2003 2:43 pm

Wasn't hairspray another stick trick? I love these experiments. Years ago on another glass board, we discussed flux and someone discovered that lemon juice worked very well. I have some of that Xtreme hair pomade that might work. I decided after one try on my hair that it really wasn't the right thing for me. :roll:

Rebecca M.
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Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 12:15 pm
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Postby Rebecca M. » Wed Dec 10, 2003 3:46 pm

Becca you should be able to sandblast those marks off if they are on the surface. If you sandwihed the tape, then you are stuck with it.


'Stuck' with it. Punny :) No, it's not sandwiched. I tried to keep the rim from getting a ghost line. Got it anyway, plus the tape ghost. boo And my sandblaster is just a wannabe. DH has a big cabinet one, but has beads and compression problems that he can't be arsed to fix. I have to work on my nagging skills.

Phil Brown

Postby Phil Brown » Thu Dec 11, 2003 10:42 am

After having some bad results with white glue I started experimenting. I tried Glastac but it just doesn't have enough holding power for my taste and pieces were detaching before I could get it in the kiln. Tried a couple of other things too that left residue, then tried Mucilage (sp?). You know, the kind you used in Kindergarten that looks like honey and has the funny little rubber cap on the bottle. It's great! So far on half a dozen pieces I've gotten zero residue- and it's extremely tacky so you can reposition pieces while it's setting up very easily. It's the best and easiest adhesive I've used so far, and it's cheap and easy to come by.

Phil


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