For the past years I've been running my sandblasting set up with a Husky 17 gallon, 1.7HP compressor...it worked, but noisy endeavor as the compressor runs all the time. It is time for a new, bigger one.
My cold shop (little shade house which used to house my orchids ) only has a 115V outlet. Would a gas powered compressor be an option? Are they more noisy and require more maintenance?
If electric, can I run a heavy duty extension cord from my 220 outlet or need to bite the $$ bullet and get an electrician to run a new line.
I only sandblast 2-3 times a month.
Any input highly appreciated. Thank you.
I don't really see the need. I blast for a couple of hours a day 5 days a week and use a 115v compressor, it has been used constantly for 9 years without any real issues. I recently replaced the pressure switch on it. It works as good today as it did when I bought it. Sure I like the big powerful toys as much as the next guy but you don't NEED it. I've known people who blasted with much smaller compressors than you have and made due. to your question though, gas will be a lot louder and more troublesome. Yes you could use a really heavy duty extension cord though I don't recommend it unless you know exactly what you are doing as the longer the cord is the heavier it needs to be. Run long air lines before you run long electrical.
Im in the process of replacing this. I've never done much in the electric field except rewire DOLL WHO QUICKLY CAUGHT FIRE. just a couple questions.. Yhe Arrow, what is that to?
Here is the new (first) and the old compressor regulator; where does the blue and and thick black go one the new compressor. ?
S.TImmerman wrote:Im in the process of replacing this. I've never done much in the electric field except rewire DOLL WHO QUICKLY CAUGHT FIRE. just a couple questions.. Yhe Arrow, what is that to?
Here is the new (first) and the old compressor regulator; where does the blue and and thick black go one the new compressor. ?
SOOO many heartfelt thanks!
Hi Shereen, I have never changed one. You should start a new thread so people can better see your question. Mention what make and model, is it 110 or 220. I'm sure someone will come along and help.
Bob
The thing with the arrow is called the "unloader valve" what it does is release any pressure in the line from the actual compressor to the tank once the motor has shut off. If the line is pressurized when it's time to restart the pressure makes it very difficult to get the motor going again (too much resistance)
Rick Wilton wrote:The thing with the arrow is called the "unloader valve" what it does is release any pressure in the line from the actual compressor to the tank once the motor has shut off. If the line is pressurized when it's time to restart the pressure makes it very difficult to get the motor going again (too much resistance)
KarunaS, so sorry to hijack your post!
The reason I bought this is because it would NEVER restart to keep the pressure.. it did go up to the correct pressure to begin with . Well, today I got it all set up and its working - however that valve and this line look like they should be connected. I only tested it to make sure it worked. Under the with plastic head there is a copper shaft about the same size as that "unloader valve" do these connect? How do I get that plastic head off? If not , what do I do with that line from the back ? Here are photos of both.. THANK you So much.. I was kidding about the doll.. My son and I have built computers side by side when he was 14, I love the challenge of it all.
I can't thank you enough!
Attachments
Right under The " unloader valve" there was a port which the pressure release wire thing fit, when you pull it you can release pressure. Im not sure of the name if it
S.TImmerman wrote:What's the longest hose that's feasible? Could I stick my Compressor 1200 feet away and run a hose? That would be awesome. I hate the noise!
1200 feet is a bit long, but 100 ft is not out of the question.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
It's a bit hard to tell, but you could cut that hose and re attach it to the new unloader valve. You should be able to make it work with the right fittings. All of the lines I've seen have been flexible copper going from the "check valve" to the unloader valve. If your compressor can't start once it's up to pressure it could be that the check valve isn't working. Once the compressor motor stops the unloader valve should kick in and unload the pressure in the line. So once the motor stops it should just make a short (1/2 a second) pressure release (hissing) noise then no more noise. There should be no additional release of air, if it continues to hiss air then the check valve is shot and needs to be replaced. Your motor will likely not be able to run (when the tank is pressurized) if your check valve is leaking because all the air in the tank will be pressing against the compressor pistons. The check valve is a one way valve that allows the pressure to go into the tank but not back out the same way when the motor stops. To test the check valve get the tank up to pressure turn off the motor then push the needle end of the old unloader valve, if air continues to come out of the valve for more than a second or so then you need to replace the check valve. Your old pressure switch could have been just fine and it was the check valve the whole time.
Rick,
I can't thank you enough for all your help. It turns on fine now (like before) but was afraid to test it too much with that port open and that line hanging. If I cut it off the back bottom (its not under ine tank) should I get some sort of fitting to keep it closed? If I could get that plastic head off that line I wonder what parts I'll need. I will take the photos into a store and see if the can help me .
Thank you again for your help!
Shereen
I'd remove the black line as well as the new unloader valve and take them both to the plumbing dept. at your local home depot or similar store. It's a bit hard to tell but you may actually be able to use the existing white loader valve if you remove the new one the old one may fit.
Wish I had read read this before I cut the line. In the uploader valve there was a locking copper fitting that tightened around the black line. I'm so frustrated as now when it turns on both valves are reading the same value and I let it run up to 75psi, then let air out to 40 psi( both are at 40) and it never turned on to replace the psi. I think you mentioned this would not fix the problem.. You were right! Would you recommend replacing that black hose with copper? Thanks so much Rick!!
Also, that black plastic line dos have air coming out. Do you think the best thing to do is take it off (along with the cut plastic head). All the fittings and the new uploader valve? To home depot or lowes? Ty!!
It sounds like your original problem was that the check valve was leaking (broken) The check valve needs to be replaced if there is air coming out of the black tube for more than a second once the motor has stopped. Home depot will be of zero help replacing the check valve you'll need a compressor repair place or maybe order a replacement on line depending on the brand of compressor will determine the availability of parts. You can buy a new compressor a lot of the time for less than it'll cost to have it repaired (at least around here) If you can fix them yourself you're fine but once it goes into a shop the shop rates can get expensive. Spend $300.00 to repair a old compressor or buy a new one for $300.00 - $400.00. Let me know if I can help further.
Rick, i really appreciate your advice - I had no idea i could buy an Air compressor for Sandblasting for 300.00 is there one you recommend? 120 would be nice, however I have a 220 for my kiln and would never have them on at the same time. What would the minimum compressor be for 3 hours of sandblasting 4-5 days a month?
Something like this would work perfectly as long as you are using a pressure pot. It would likely work fine for syphon blasting but it would be on the low end.
I ended up buying a 30 gallon/2HP Husky Pro at Home Depot for $471, which works with 110V. It is much more quiet than the one I had before as it's belt driven. So far works great for me. Lowe's has a similar sized Kobalt one, but it had bad reviews.
) only has a 115V outlet. Would a gas powered compressor be an option? Are they more noisy and require more maintenance? 
