Tack fusing powder wafers

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Geo
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 8:54 am

Tack fusing powder wafers

Post by Geo »

Is it possible to tack fuse a wafer and not lose the granular appearance, and end up with something that can withstand handling (eg ornaments)? I've been experimenting and haven't gotten it right yet.
Morganica
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Location: Portland, OR
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Re: Tack fusing powder wafers

Post by Morganica »

Yes, but it depends on the color you're using as well as the frit size. Powder doesn't have much of a granular appearance to begin with, so I'm assuming you're talking about fine frit?

Some colors hold their shape better than others with tack fuse schedules. And you'll need a fair amount of frit to make a structure thick enough to be sturdy.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com

"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
Geo
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 8:54 am

Re: Tack fusing powder wafers

Post by Geo »

Yes, I am talking about fine frit. I'm using Bullseye. I'll check with them to see if they have info on which colors melt at higher or lower temperatures.

Thanks Cynthia!
Morganica
Posts: 1079
Joined: Mon May 19, 2003 6:19 pm
Location: Portland, OR
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Re: Tack fusing powder wafers

Post by Morganica »

Honestly? The best way to figure out how tack-fused frit will behave in your kiln is to test it yourself. Get a sheet of clear glass and mound up little pyramids of fine frit. If necessary, mix the frit with a bit of gum arabic and water (or maple syrup or hairspray or mucilage and water, doesn't really matter, they're all sticky and will dry hard). The object of the game here is to get the frit a bit thicker than you think it needs to be to achieve your aims, but to make equal-sized mounds. I like to press mine into a four-sided pyramid shape.

Now fire that sheet with the tack-fuse schedule you want to use in the final pieces. Then examine the results. Most likely, some mounds will still be granular, some will be completely smooth and glossy. Possibly some won't even be well-tacked. Record the schedule used for that piece, etch it on the back of your test sheet, then repeat the process with a different schedule. You'll see how each of the frits responds to different schedules, learn which can be fired at the same time and which will melt too much (or too little) for what you want.

Takes extra time, of course, but it's worth it because you'll have a guide that's fine-tuned for your methods and equipment. The best anyone else can do with tack-fusing is give you a hint as to what you'll finally wind up doing to be successful.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com

"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
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