Cheap saw/good blade?

[Valerie Adams]

Thanks for all the responses on my MK-101 post. I've never needed a tile saw (so far!) but I got excited when I saw the used MK on Craig's List. Since many recommended a cheap saw with a good blade, at least to get me started, I'm asking once again for feedback.

Harbor Freight sells a 2.5 HP 10" wet tile saw for $250 and I've got a 20% off coupon. If I buy the Result blade from HIS, does this sound like a reasonable way for me to enter into the glass sawing area?

Thanks again for any advice!

[Rick Wilton]

It's a bit hard to tell from just the pictures, but that looks like a fairly decent saw to me. The only thing that gives me pause is the motor being attached directly to the shaft. Most of the 10" saws have the motor to the back and a belt driving the blade shaft. This is however how they do it with the Dewalt tile saw that costs around $800.00.

What I like about your saw and the dewalt one is being able to cut miters by tilting the blade not tilting the material.

I'd buy it if I was looking for a saw. Try cutting some thick stone or a big rock, if it doesn't get boged down then it's likely a decent saw.

The other thing that is likely concerning to many here is that it's at Harborfreight, which doesn't sell top of the line tools. I have bought many, many tools from the Canadian equivalent to harbor freight and am happy with the value you get from them. If I was going to use a tile saw for hours a day, every day then yes maybe spend the money on an MK but almost no one here uses their saw for more than a hour a MONTH. (sure there are exceptions) I use a cheap tile saw similar to the old harbor freight ones and cut 1.5" thick glass and granite with it and have done so regularly for many years without issue. It's somewhat true that you get what you pay for, but not always, I don't think a $1200 saw is six times better than the one you posted.

Good luck and let us know how it works if you buy it.

[Valerie Adams]

Thanks Rick.

I've been fusing for about 11 years and haven't needed a saw yet. I've got a little Ameritool 4" lapidary saw that I've used a couple times but obviously not for anything larger.

I'm thinking this seems like a way for me to see if there's a use for a saw in my studio; if I wind up using it more than a couple hours a month, I can always upgrade. The Craig's List MK-101 will be gone but there are always deals to find. I'm going to look at the HF one today.

[Marty]

That HF 10" saw is not direct drive- there is a belt connecting the motor to the drive shaft.

Those Chinese knockoffs of the MK are very good and will serve you well. Most of them have a way to move the motor/shaft stuff a bit closer to the front of the saw. It may not be necessary for tile work but it sure helps when you're cutting pb's or cane or slabs; you won't be leaning over the machine as much. Adjust the height of the machine to your comfortable work height.

And by all means get a good blade. The Result blade (0.040") from HIS costs $89. Treat it kindly, don't keep dressing it, don't lend it out.

[Rick Wilton]

this is the saw they have on the HF site, it's the one I was referencing, it's not the typical HF saw like I have.

[Valerie Adams]

Thanks guys.

That photo is the one I bought yesterday, along with a stand and a two-year warranty. Total price (I had a 20% off coupon) was $295. I'll buy the blade from HIS and give it a try.

[Bert Weiss]

Thanks guys.

That photo is the one I bought yesterday, along with a stand and a two-year warranty. Total price (I had a 20% off coupon) was $295. I'll buy the blade from HIS and give it a try.

I don't know this saw. I do have a Chinese drill press. On that machine, you have to check each and every adjustable setting every time you use it. After that, it does a reasonable job.

[Yardic Glassworks]

I've been using this very saw for a while now with no complaints other than the table which has raised rubber areas which leaves a wider area at the gap than I would like. I also have a QEP which cost about 3 times as much. They both cut the same. Tim

[Jane Morgan]

I look forward to hearing your review on this saw as I'm looking for one myself (don't let anyone tell you a 1/2 hp saw will be fine!).
Jane

[twin vision glass]

My only comment from a pattern bar person who cuts alot of color bars is that you will not get a long cut as the bed is very very short. Hmm! I hope you understand what I mean. You will not be able to cut more that perhaps a 9 inch slice without having to turn it around and cut from other side. I do like the ones with LONG beds to be able to cut 20 or 30 inchs long in one long motion. This is my two cents. Also the RPM is important so that if you want to go thick , it can chomp through it.
Leslie ( the infamous PLASTIC BAG LADY colour bar gal)

[dee]

valerie, it does look like a fairly decent saw, i do have the mk 101 pro since when i bought it i was averaging 5-6 hrs a week on the saw and more at times. the blade i use the most is mk diamond's 303 professional with a .032 kerf. i think mine are 8" blades, if this will fit on your saw it's a very good cutting blade - even for jewelry - and are long lasting, priced decently. kingsley north has it for $61. they have that blade in a variety of sizes.

D

[Valerie Adams]

Thanks for everyone's input, I really appreciate it.

I'm thinking this will be a good "starter" saw. I bought Jennifer's Result blade and the MK-303 blade she was selling the other day. When they arrive, I guess I'll dig the saw out of the box and try to figure out where it's going to live in my way-too-crowded studio!