Double Curve Mold Base - WarmGlass.com

Double Curve Mold Base

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Marian
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Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Marian » Thu Dec 05, 2013 5:23 am

Any great ideas for making the Bullseye double curve #8643 16 inch long mold and the big 21 inch long double curve mold stand straight? I have spent more time than I like observing, sanding and fussing with the edge to get it to stop rocking. It is so long and the flat lap is too short with a tire for a splash guard. I have a water angle grinder, small tile saw and a floor model sander to use. All those power tools help me make more exotic rocking.

Lauri Levanto
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Location: Halikko, Finland

Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Lauri Levanto » Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:13 pm

I do not have that kind of persistence. I do make "custon kiln posts" of a slab of clay vedged under 3 sides of a mold.

Morganica
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Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Morganica » Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:28 pm

Get yourself a flat, waterproof surface such as a big piece of float glass, at least twice as long and a few inches wider than your piece. Also get a spray bottle of water, a couple of packs of wet-dry sandpaper, 220-grit or coarser, and some spray adhesive. Attach the sandpaper, grit side up, to the surface and spray it with water until damp, not drippy.

Set your piece on the sandpaper and hold it in the position you want it to end up in when stable. Push it back and forth, bearing down firmly. Don't let it rock, and keep on until it no longer rocks. You can also mix loose grit and water into a light slurry on your surface, and use that instead of sandpaper. It is a bit more efficient but the grit is harder to find.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
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Valerie Adams
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Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Valerie Adams » Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:43 pm

I find the best solution is to keep my base edge lined up perfectly with the mold (assuming the mold is straight, of course!). I also keep the thickness the same along the bottom edge, to prevent rocking.

Hopefully Nina Falk will chime in here, as she's made hundreds of pieces using those molds and I don't think she does any coldworking after slumping.

Barry Gitelson
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Location: On the mountain side in Kona Hawaii

Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Barry Gitelson » Thu Dec 05, 2013 3:46 pm

Great subject. I have had this problem too and was wondering how to solve it on some menorahs I made. I fused a second piece to match the curve that was about a half inch wide and glued it to the back hoping that the double thickness would help ... and it did ... but not enough to make a difference.
Barry Gitelson
Kona, HI

"Some dance to remember, some dance to forget" Hotel California - The Eagles

"Your talent is God's gift to you. What you do with it is your gift back to God." Author: Leo Buscaglia

David Jenkins
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Location: Cypress, Texas

Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby David Jenkins » Sat Dec 07, 2013 2:56 pm

Marian: Are you trying to keep the mold from rocking? Or the glass piece after it has been slumped into the mold?
Dave Jenkins
Glass at Harbor Gates
Cypress, TX

Morganica
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Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Morganica » Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:59 pm

David Jenkins wrote:Marian: Are you trying to keep the mold from rocking? Or the glass piece after it has been slumped into the mold?

I thought it was the glass, but I've been known to misread... ;-)
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com

"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)

DonMcClennen
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 9:09 pm
Location: Ontario

Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby DonMcClennen » Sat Dec 07, 2013 4:34 pm

Why can't you just shim it like you do a rocking table??
"The Glassman"

Marian
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Joined: Mon Dec 06, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: Big Island Hawaii
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Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby Marian » Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:08 pm

Yes, it is the slumped glass piece that comes out uneven. I do a heavily textured fuse and the piece doesn't fall evenly into the mold. Before slumping, I trim the bottom and check that it lays on line with the mold by lining it up against another piece of glass. Three out of four are in need of cold work. Thanks, Morganica, the long emery sounds possible. I have many to work on. I am taking a piece over to a bigger glass saw in hopes it will do a quicker trim without destroying the whole thing.

desjo
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Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 8:35 pm

Re: Double Curve Mold Base

Postby desjo » Sun Dec 08, 2013 12:24 am

I watched HIS Glassworks 'Specials' section and got a fairly good deal on an 18" electroplated diamond disk with minor imperfections. I use it to hand coldwork tasks such as this. I've used it numerous times to square up wave bottoms to take care of that annoying wobble, even if just slight as it rather quickly puts an even and flat bottom on the wave. Works like a charm for me and has a number of over similar uses. It cost a bit but I believe it should last for quite a while.


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