is this normal? (fired paint)

[krccpht]

I used Kaiser black paint with a screen to put my image on the glass, it looked beautiful...crisp, dark, perfect.

After firing though, it looks "faded", kind of transparent, which makes it look a little fuzzy.

Is this normal? Is there a way to fix this or prevent this from happening again if it isn't normal?

Also, I didn't let it dry before firing, could this be the problem? See attached photo

[Bert Weiss]

possibly overfired, or applied too thinly. Drying should not be an issue. (I work with a different medium, so I can't say for sure it isn't an issue, but the issue would be that it boiled before it dried, and you would see evidence of this. I don't see any.)

[Barry Kaiser]

Actually the lack of drying can affect the depth of color.
The media can thin out as it heats up,and flow a little, thus lightening up the coverage.
You can still print over that print and refire. We do that with a very slight offset and it looks like a shadow.

Note:Our black should give a very crisp color if applied correctly. you can test fire by doing a screen print image on a clear piece of glass and firing.

This example: was printed in purple and did not show up well. Added another layer of printed and offset in silver to emphasize the image.

Barry

[williamslaybaugh]

Did you cap it? It looks as though you brought it up to process temperature without capping. I can't tell from the photo if it was, but that would cause it to spread and fade like that.

[krccpht]

Thanks everyone for your replies!

I fired it to a full use, just the same schedule I pretty much use for everything else 14?? degrees. This is my first real experience working with paint.

I also did not cap it, I did this on top of an already "finished" piece.

I used a little foam applicator and dabbed the paint on, as every time I try using a paint brush it runs everywhere and just creates a big blob of black. It did look opaque and very black after applied...so not sure if too thin, but it is possible.

For this piece, as suggested, I'll try to re-do it and see what that does, also let it dry beforehand, and also let the others dry before as well in the future. Any other tips?

[Barry Kaiser]

Capping should not make a difference. The above piece is not capped, but I have plenty of pieces that are capped.
I use Kaiser Flux to thicken the paint. That helps a lot.


Barry

[Mike Jordan]

I've been experimenting with screen print as well and using the Kaiser Paints. Although my screen wasn't all that great and I used the paint straight out of the jar (I ordered and used the Flux the next time and it was much better) I didn't have a problem with it fading on me.



It was applied pretty thick... at least thick to me, I don't know if someone that is experienced in screen printing would consider it thick though. I did let mine dry completely before firing it. This was Bullseye glass and I went to 1425 for 25 minutes.

Mike

[krccpht]

I'm using the hi-def screen from ezscreenprint.

I might just order some of that flux and give it a try also.

Mike Jordan, how did you apply your paint? brush, foam thing, etc?

[Mike Jordan]

I've applied the paint by dabbing it on across the top of the screen and then use the squeegee that came in the Stencil Pro kit I bought and squeegee down across the screen. Without adding the flux to the paint the paint is to wet. After I added some of the flux it made more of a paste that I could force through the screen rather than run through the screen like it had. I bought two jars of the flux because it sounded like they were small but one jar will go a long ways with the paint. I'm still in the learning phase of how much to mix to get the right consistency.

Mike

[Drewcilla]

I am no expert but I've had some success this past year and I would offer the following:

1. After printing, I dry the piece in a turned-off 250 degree oven until thoroughly dry.
2. Then I "cure" the piece in the kiln before full fusing with this schedule:
500 - 1000 :
full - 1250 - hold 5:
full - 900 - hold 30
100 - 700 off
3. I have had most success with firing the paint either clear capped or printed on clear glass or Tekta paint side down over the bottom glass. I have fired paint side up and had wonderful luck, but I've also had the paint get blurry around the edges or even produce an ugly ghost image. This last piece was so upsetting that I posted in my notes "DON'T FIRE PAINT UP" to remind myself.

I've used both Ulano EZ Screen (an emulsion coated screen that has to be UV exposed) and hand-cut stencils with standard screen printing. I've used Kaiser paint and a high-fire enamel black powder needing to be mixed with medium from Fusion Headquarters.

Good luck,
Drewcilla

[Valerie Adams]

The only last bit of advice I'd add is make sure you've REALLY stirred your pre-mixed paint to thoroughly blend. I've successfully used Kaiser Paints but I use paint so seldom that it tends to settle and needs extra stirring.

[Barry Kaiser]

Need to stir the paint! If you don't, even a small amount of settling thins the paint near the surface. That is what you tend to use.

Barry