Buying a Kiln

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Amy Jakowski
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Buying a Kiln

Post by Amy Jakowski »

Hi All,
I am interested in buying a glass kiln. I have narrowed my choices down to 3 kilns- I think? Skutt Clamshell GM22cs, Skutt GM1014 and Paragon 10. I want to be able to slump and drape well. Also I am wondering about ease of element replacement and lid material stability. Thank you for your experience and thoughts.
Brad Walker
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Brad Walker »

Amy Jakowski wrote:I am interested in buying a glass kiln. I have narrowed my choices down to 3 kilns- I think? Skutt Clamshell GM22cs, Skutt GM1014 and Paragon 10.
This is kind of like saying "I want to buy a car. I have narrowed my choices down to an Audi A3, a Dodge Caravan, and a Jeep Cherokee." Those cars are very different, and so are the three kilns you listed. The Clamshell is about double the price of the Paragon and the sizes and shapes of the kilns vary significantly, too.

Here are a few guidelines: square or rectangular kilns are better than round or oval ones, 12 key controllers are better than controllers with 3 buttons, and elements in quartz tubes are better than elements in routed brick.

Most people would say that if you're picking from those three options and money is no object, then you should buy the Skutt Clamshell. It's the only one of the three that meets all of the guidelines I listed. And it's a reliable kiln that's been around a while, so you can't go wrong with that pick.

However, before you settle in on that choice, you might want to ask yourself what kinds of pieces you plan to make. That might bring other kilns into the picture.
Vonon
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Vonon »

I have a Skutt clamshell and I love it.
Vonon
Amy Jakowski
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Amy Jakowski »

Buying a kiln for our pottery studio. We have limped along using a pottery kiln for large pieces (10" bowls, 12" platters) Now we want a dedicated kiln for glass. We have a Paragon kiln for jewelry (7" x7" inside) We want to be able to fuse and slump 4x5", 3x3", 8X8" round 10" pieces for ourselves and small groups. I would like try draping. So would having top & side elements have advantages?
Don Burt
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Don Burt »

One of the criteria you mentioned was ease of replacing elements. I can't imagine any kiln in which it easier than the Skutt Clamshell. There is an issue however with the fact that the elements in the Skutt Clamshell are aligned on support bars running from the front to back. Hence gravity pulls them toward the back when the lid is raised, especially when the kiln is hot...which contributes to their tendency to bunch up at the back. Eventually the coils touch one another which shortens element life and diminishes evenivity. You can use a torch to heat them up and move them back where you want them, but its kind like herding cats or coaching youth soccer.
Brad Walker
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Brad Walker »

Amy Jakowski wrote: So would having top & side elements have advantages?
You can get by with only side elements, and some glass fusing kilns only have top elements, but in most cases it's best to have both top and side elements.

Round kilns are best for pottery, while square or rectangular kilns are most efficient for glass. You can fit a lot more in a 12" square than in a 12" circle. Most people who buy round kilns for glass eventually wish they had a square kiln.
Bert Weiss
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Re: Buying a Kiln

Post by Bert Weiss »

Brad Walker wrote:
Amy Jakowski wrote: So would having top & side elements have advantages?
You can get by with only side elements, and some glass fusing kilns only have top elements, but in most cases it's best to have both top and side elements.

Round kilns are best for pottery, while square or rectangular kilns are most efficient for glass. You can fit a lot more in a 12" square than in a 12" circle. Most people who buy round kilns for glass eventually wish they had a square kiln.
Brad, I've never had a kiln with top and side elements, but I can't for the life of me imagine why side elements do anything beyond require you to slow you down. I am referring to kilns about 12" deep. Once you are more than 12" from the elements, I believe heat falls off.
If your kiln is 18" deep and the side elements are near the bottom, and below your shelf, I can see the advantage.

In my minds eye, the ideal kiln has equal top and floor elements. I've never seen one built like this, but I want one.
Bert

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