WarmGlass.com

Hello All,

I would like to buy a 10" Wet Tie Saw. I believe I've read every post about saws at least 3 times, and read Cynthia's excellent article about tile saws and blades. I will be following the communities advice in buying a special purpose glass blade based on performance not cost.

That being said, I'm looking at the Harbor Freight 2.5 Horsepower 10" Industrial Tile/Brick Saw . The Harbor Freight saw has fairly good narrative reviews. Throughout the posts here, I've read one "I love it" and one "I hated it and bought a MK100".

My husband and I are woodworkers, and normally buy the best tool we can possibly afford. In MOST cases, we live by the adage, "You get what you pay for". I'm just starting out in fusing glass. It's a hobby, but I am a perfectionist and very detail oriented. I've owned and used quiet a few table top tile saws (kept returning them until I hit on one that cut accurately)

My goal is to not exceed $350 - 400 for a saw knowing I will be buying a good blade. Does anyone have an opinion on the Harbor Freight saw? Would it be better to wait until a good buy comes along on a used MK100?

Any alternative suggestions and advice are greatly welcome!

I currently use A Harbor Freight tile saw. I have had it for about 3 years now. Made thousands of cuts, still working fine. It looks like I have a model that preceded the model you are looking at (I have this model: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krt6Ezfb7Eo).

The only issue I have is that it cuts just a bit crooked, and I could never get it lined up perfectly. It's not a deal breaker for me.

I'm pretty happy with it, but I don't have anything else to compare it to, since this is the only saw I have used.

As far as I am concerned, the blade is the most important component.

Make sure you use their 20% coupon.
Their return policy is easy. If you don't like it, take it back.

the saw is just ok. the packaging is horrible and you will be lucky to get it undamaged if it has to be shipped. r.

I have two 10 inch tile saws. One is a QEP, very expensive, the other is from Harbor Freight, very inexpensive. I find that the Harbor Freight cuts just as well as the expensive saw if using a good blade. It hs plenty of power and the water delivery is good. The only downside is the table itself. The channel that the blade runs in is quite wide and tapers at the top making it even wider, thus no support for narrow pieces of glass and they will break. I remedied this by placing plexiglass on top and leaving just enough space for the blade. Tim

Tim Yardic:
My experience and my problem - and THANK YOU for the solution!!! Woohoo!

I bought Harbor Freight's 'best' 10" saw last year. Got my blades from HIS Glassworks. I don't have a lot of sawing experience so felt this was the way to see if it was something I'd use and incorporate into my work. I rigged a waterline so I don't have to use the pump in a bucket routine.

I'm very happy with the quality of the saw and ease of use. I'm going to apply Tim's fix for the wide channel issue now.

I just saw this post. Love my HF saw, but have the same problem with the wide blade channel. How do you get the plexi glass to stay in place? Could you post a photo? Thanks!! PS: can't say enough about using a great blade; my choice is the Results blade from HIS. Cuts glass like butter!

With My HF saw I siliconed the plexiglas to the table and then used an old blade to cut through it..leaves an opening just a shade wider than my Husqvarna Blade from HIS.

I also have the HF saw'
It cuts OK, but it sounds like the saw has square bearings ">)
Jim

Same here--I've cut glass on top-line glass saws and they're wonderful, but the blade is what really matters. Back in 2003 I promised myself that when my el-cheapo eBay special died (a nasty Chinese knock-off with an out-of-true sliding table that included stand, water tray, 3 10" diamond blades, water pump AND shipping for $100) I would buy the best glass saw I could possibly afford.

After 13 years that stupid old saw is still going strong. I've outfitted it with loc-lines and a Result blade, did the plexiglass table cover thing described here, and I still get near-perfect cuts with almost no chipout.

So...I'd opt for whatever saw gives me the best price, fix it up a bit, focus instead on the blade.