Cold working then fusing - WarmGlass.com

Cold working then fusing

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Aglassygirl303
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Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:08 pm

Cold working then fusing

Postby Aglassygirl303 » Wed May 14, 2014 4:17 pm

I have a 12" square piece that came out a little funky on the edges, although there are times when this is cool and desirable, I want it to be square. I am going to do some cold working with the Taurus and a little grinding. My question is do I start over and re fire and then slump or do I just re slump?

Thank you all you wonderful pros out there

Brad Walker
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Re: Cold working then fusing

Postby Brad Walker » Wed May 14, 2014 4:31 pm

In most cases you don't want to slump until the edges are the way you want them. After you coldwork the edges, you can fire polish by firing up to around 1350 and holding until the edge rounds (you can fire a little higher than that if you want). Then you slump the piece.

If you've already slumped the piece, the coldworking is a lot harder and you may need to flatten it again before you can work on the edges.

Before refiring make sure the edges of the piece are very clean and as smooth as you can get them. (Diamond hand pads help here!) And be sure to fire slower on the re-heat so you don't crack the piece.

Aglassygirl303
Posts: 47
Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:08 pm

Re: Cold working then fusing

Postby Aglassygirl303 » Wed May 14, 2014 6:37 pm

What is the schedule to "fire polish" is it just 300 dph to 1350 and then hold for 10 and then what? Does it need to cool to aneal. I honestly in 7 years have never had a piece go womperjomp on me and have not had to cold work to fix something. I really like this piece so want to do what I can.

Brad Walker
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Re: Cold working then fusing

Postby Brad Walker » Wed May 14, 2014 8:39 pm

Aglassygirl303 wrote:What is the schedule to "fire polish" is it just 300 dph to 1350 and then hold for 10 and then what? Does it need to cool to aneal. I honestly in 7 years have never had a piece go womperjomp on me and have not had to cold work to fix something. I really like this piece so want to do what I can.


Anytime you go above the annealing range you have to anneal and cool as normal.

Also, if you really like the piece you might want to go even slower, around 250 dph to 1350F. Some pieces also need a little higher temperature than 1350 to properly fire polish, it could be as high as 1400 depending on the piece and your kiln.

Aglassygirl303
Posts: 47
Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:08 pm

Re: Cold working then fusing

Postby Aglassygirl303 » Wed May 14, 2014 8:44 pm

Got it, thank you for your help.


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