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Has anyone made the fluted stainless steel mold Richard La Londe uses for his botanical pieces? I have the book and pattern but not the guts to make one and need to know if it as difficult as it seems. I think I would be more comfortable making it from clay but not sure I could achieve the relatively sharp bend lines.

I had a stainless fabricator make one for me.

Of course! Don't know why I think everything has to be DIY. Valarie, has yours worked out well for you? Any caveats?

I have one, I had a metal fabricator make for me as per Richards tutorial in his book. I will sell it for $85 plus shipping. I'm in California. I never used it.

I haven't used mine either (yet!).

Shawn, Valarie. I appreciate your replies and the fact that neither of you has used your mold tells me something. It also occurs to me that my kiln may not have enough volume to accommodate the original pattern. I think I'll make a small ceramic version and see how that works. I want to make a botanical thingy and will first see if I can make a satisfactory flat version. If successful I will check back with you (Shawn) regarding your mold.

Vonon -it's not as bad as it sounds! I have 2 of the LaLonde molds; the first one I had made, as per his instructions in book 1, and then a second mold that I later made, as a student in Richards class. I have used the one I made in his class a few times. I feel like it is Richards' design and the end product looks like a "Richard LaLonde" and I prefer going off in a new direction.

WOULD LIKE TO SEE A PIC OF THIS MOLD PLEASE
Jim
excuse the shouting, please.

jim simmons wrote:WOULD LIKE TO SEE A PIC OF THIS MOLD PLEASE
Jim
excuse the shouting, please.

Here's the shape of the glass: http://richardlalonde.com/vesselsarchive/ Check out the Mandala forms. RIchard's book has directions to make mold from stainless.

Why not make a clay circle and shape according to LaLonde's instruction, might be easier or less intimidating to work with, also less expensive.
Barbel

Barbel wrote:Why not make a clay circle and shape according to LaLonde's instruction

Mainly because the glass is more likely to get stuck on the clay than it is on stainless.

It isn't the kiln wash etc that is the problem with clay vs metal molds but rather the thermal mass properties are different.
What you don't need is varying thicknesses of clay holding various amounts of thermal mass which in turn impacts on how long you have to anneal for. You can't get clay to be as low a thermal mass as you can with metal and thus the metal mold could in a short period of time save you enough in energy costs and time to pay for its creation.

Hello,

Yes I made and have used my Lalonde ss fluted hold many times. It is wonderful!

Well, I'm encouraged again. I would have to have a smaller diameter as I only have about 9" max depth for an upright mold leaving a couple inches below elements. Thanks to all who have replied.

Hello,

I tried to answer your email, but it was bounced back so... you can see some of the pieces I have made with the La Londe ss form at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te6gx-utrTA.

I followed Richard's instructions, sand blasted it and smoothed the edges and used MR97 spray. Be sure to use stainless rivets (aluminum are most common but can't stand the heat). Mine measures 25" at it's widest point and 8" deep. I fire with top element only, esp. if it will sit close to side elements.
I am sure you will love it.

Sharda,

Very, very nice work!

Warren