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So with new numbers I made new soap dishes in my molds. My new numbers were ra 1 300 to 1100 hold for 35 minutes, ra 2 500 to 1225 for hold 10 minutes & ra 3 9999 down to 950 hold for 25 minutes.......I had NO spikes/needles !! And very little devitrification on the back of the slumped glass I am much happier on those 2 things.........but why is my glass still sagging into the molds especially along the longer edges on the small mold ? The same glass was used in both molds. Please comments are appreciated as I continue on

Are you working with two layers of glass? the 1/4"

no one layer, i had also put on some frit to fuse into the glass Could that have caused the saggy edges ?

Marie Lockburner wrote:no one layer, i had also put on some frit to fuse into the glass Could that have caused the saggy edges ?

Yes, you'll have better luck with two layers (6mm / 1/4"). A lower slumping temperature with a longer hold might also help prevent the dogboning.

ok, so I will try 2 layers with NO frit, save that part for a fusing cycle. .......and what slump temp & hold time do you suggest Brad ? I am doing 1225 for 10 minutes. YOU all know you are TOTALLY awesome & I am for ever thankful

Marie Lockburner wrote:ok, so I will try 2 layers with NO frit, save that part for a fusing cycle. .......and what slump temp & hold time do you suggest Brad ? I am doing 1225 for 10 minutes. YOU all know you are TOTALLY awesome & I am for ever thankful

Since your kiln is not the same as mine, it's hard to suggest a definitive temp and time, but if you're getting dogboning the solution is usually to fire lower and hold longer. I'd try 1200 for 20 to 30 minutes -- if you can peek in the kiln to see when it's done that'll help.

If you slow those ramps down, your glass will experience more heatwork and less funky stretching. Think of gently guiding the glass into the mold. I slump at 250° per hour. There's no reason for your hold at 1100°.

Valerie Adams wrote: There's no reason for your hold at 1100°.

Actually, I like the hold at 1100F, for the same reason as slowing the ramp down. It allows the temperature of the glass to even out everywhere going into the critical slumping phase. That (in your words) leads to "more heatwork and less funky stretching."

I always hold at 1100 for at least 30 minutes. Often, with a hold here, by the time I get up to 1225, the slump is complete or close to it.

Dana

hello all did a 2 layer of glass on soap molds yesterday & wanted to share my pics. My settings were ra 1 - 300 to 1100 for 30 minutes, ra 2 - 500 to 1220 for 10 minutes & ra 3 - 9999 down to 950 for 25 minutes. Thoughts please on being able to " see" the gap in between , should I lengthen the ra 2 time longer ??

Did you fire the two pieces together first in a separate fuse firing before you slumped?

Brad Walker wrote:Did you fire the two pieces together first in a separate fuse firing before you slumped?

I was just about to post a question on this. I'm about to make my first slumped item and it's a lot like the ashtray here. It will be 3 layers. Should the 3 layers be fused flat first, then slumped?

-BEP

bepnewt wrote:

Brad Walker wrote:Did you fire the two pieces together first in a separate fuse firing before you slumped?

I was just about to post a question on this. I'm about to make my first slumped item and it's a lot like the ashtray here. It will be 3 layers. Should the 3 layers be fused flat first, then slumped?

Yes. Absolutely.

Thank you, Brad.

-BEP

no i did not ;-( Still a learning process for me ! Will do 2 more sets of soap dishes, fuse them together, THEN slump them together THEN add the frit & confetti......OR could I do the frit & confetti at the first fuse & THEN slump them together ? I sure wish someone near me did a class

Buy Brad's book:
http://www.warmglass.org/books
Less expensive than a class and you'll have it forever for reference. There are also tutorials on this site. Jen

Buttercup wrote:Buy Brad's book:
http://www.warmglass.org/books
Less expensive than a class and you'll have it forever for reference. There are also tutorials on this site. Jen

I agree. This is exactly what I did after Brad answered my question above. I need to learn the basics before I do anything else.

-BEP