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I have searched the board and found some info on how to attach glass to aluminum, but not in enough detail to try it myself. I need to know how to attach the aluminum to the backing board, what kind of hangers work best (for both the backing board and the aluminum-to-glass), etc. Basically, the 'Dummies' version of how to do this . Can anyone help or point me in the right direction, please?

In the image below, there is no "backing board". The glass is siliconed directly to the aluminum, and one side of the aluminum is painted for a nice finish prior to adhering the glass. One or more D-rings riveted to the aluminum. You can use one D-ring and hang the work using it, or if you use two d-rings, it can be wire-hung (which is often required by galleries, and is easier to get it to hang straight).
I hope this helps.

Dana W.

Dana, Don't the rivets interfere with getting the glass to lie flat in the front side? I don't know much about rivets but assumed they would make some kind of "bump" on the other side of the metal. I've been wondering how I could use a wire to hang a metal backed glass panel because our little local gallery won't use cleats for their rotating exhibits. This is a great suggestion.

JestersBaubles wrote:In the image below, there is no "backing board". The glass is siliconed directly to the aluminum, and one side of the aluminum is painted for a nice finish prior to adhering the glass. One or more D-rings riveted to the aluminum. You can use one D-ring and hang the work using it, or if you use two d-rings, it can be wire-hung (which is often required by galleries, and is easier to get it to hang straight).

DSCN7535.JPG

I hope this helps.

Dana W.

Dana,

The photo REALLY helps! Thanks so much. I had seen your earlier posts (and I love your blog) regarding this process. The visuals really help me out so much. I am curious, like Vernon, how you attach the glass to the front without the rivets showing. Do you use standoffs or silicone it directly to the aluminum? Again, thanks for you help!

Dot

Richard la Londe's Book 1 describes the process in fine detail for larger pieces. Jen

Vonon- Re rivets- you've got some wiggle room with the silicone but rivet heads can be ground almost flat and still work.

There is enough float with the silicone that the rivets are not a problem. Or, as Marty says, you can grind them flat.

Dana W.

Thanks so much everyone for your help. Great information! I think I'm ready to give it a try!

I appreciate the answers to a problem I had but didn't know how to phrase as a question. My thanks to Smallbitz for asking! Since I don't know nuthin 'bout no rivets this has opened a new world for me.

I like to have my glass paintings stand off from the alum backer so that it is unmistakably glass. to do this I locate where my standoffs should be and scratch the glass surface with a small grinder to give the glue a good bite to the glass. I purchase alum standoffs from Mockett.com and glue them to the glass with slow setting epoxy. Slow as in 30min to an hour. The slower it sets the stronger the bond. Don't disturb these joints for 24 hrs. I use 4 standoffs on a pc 20 x 20" I locate where the stanoffs will be on the alum panel and drill for the bolts. The standoffs are threaded inside. i screw from the backside of the alum into the standoffs being very carefull that I use the right length of bolt. Prior to screwing the the standoffs to the alum panel i screw french cleats to the back of the alum. One more tip, i take the alum panel to a powder coater and have it coated, generally flat black. This is much more durable than paint.

Thank you so much, Mel. Another great reply with so much detail! This has always been the best place to get serious help, and it is so much appreciated.

Dot (smallbitz)

Mel, great advice and also nice to see one of your "Monet" style works again. So beautiful.