HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

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Richard Blummer
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HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Richard Blummer »

I came across this site in my search of the intertubes...
Apparently all it takes is some rubbing alcohol, dish detergent, and mica powder, but the specifics are very non-specific.

https://www.gofusing.com/how-to-iridize-glass/

Does anyone have any experience with this technique? How well does it work, and is it safe?
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Tony Smith
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Tony Smith »

I wasn't able to open the link that you posted, but you'll find directions in the archives here. Also, micas don't produce an iridized surface, which is a tin oxide, but a thin layer of the mica fuses to the surface of the glass.

Essentially, you'll mix mica in a medium like Klyr-fire with some alcohol and airbrush it onto the glass 5 or more coats. Fire to 1410 for 20 minutes. When cool, most of the mica will wash off, but the surface will be infused with a layer of mica. It's easy to over-fire mica, so watch your temperature.

The way I used to mix it was to fill an airbrush jar half-full with mica, add Klyr-fire until it reaches the top of the mica, then add a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to speed up drying.

Some micas burn out and lose their color. Pearl-X is one brand that you can find at Dick Blick and other craft stores. You should test them, but their red, blue and purple work pretty well. Thomson Enamels sells a line called Care Free Lusters and if I recall correctly, they all work well. I've also used bulk mica from the goldleafcompany.com - mainly aztek gold and copper that work very well. CRLoo used to sell a variety of mica colors that worked well. I'm not sure who they bought their micas from as they were bulk packaged, but worked well.

I hope this helps.

Tony
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Ed Cantarella
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Ed Cantarella »

My wife does a lot of mica design work and uses clear ink(they sell this for use with stamp pads). Seems to really stick the mica tight to the surface. Different brands really work out differently. We don't like Fusemaster, seems to have some kind of additive than can boil if at all too thick and gets clumped up in the package even with a packet of silica gel added to ensure dryness :x . Delphi's gold mica is "ok", but not nearly as gold as what we get -> -> Currently very happy with one from a soap makers supplier, ebayer "countryfolksoap". Their "24k gold" has got some really staying power, routinely taking to 1440-1450. Flakes are a little bigger than some. Their PInk, bronze and copper shimmers do pretty good( Pink looks killer in the veins of a brown crackle item, imo. Have also done that against a soft orange). Their Olive green has no staying power at high heat. :cry:
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Barry Kaiser
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Barry Kaiser »

Gold Silver copper bronze and red have pretty good staying power when fused up to near 1500.
Green, purple and blue are very finicky. We use interference colors for those. They use light diffraction (particle size)to create the color. Their stability goes up close to the metallic colors.
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Buttercup
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Buttercup »

Years ago I bought some stannous chloride, thinking I could iridize glass in the kiln. Fortunately a chemical engineer friend warned me that I'd be building a bomb in my kiln so I didn't try it. I just now googled 'glassblowing & stannous chloride' and lots of info came up.

I understand it's used by glass blowers (and mirror makers?). That's where I got the original crazy idea.
Kevin Midgley
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Kevin Midgley »

Purchased a crate of pre 96 vintage iridized glass that had a sticker on the end of the crate saying 'this product may damage the ozone' layer might be another reason not to try making your own.
Buttercup
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Buttercup »

Don Burt
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Don Burt »

Buttercup wrote:Years ago I bought some stannous chloride, thinking I could iridize glass in the kiln. Fortunately a chemical engineer friend warned me that I'd be building a bomb in my kiln so I didn't try it. I just now googled 'glassblowing & stannous chloride' and lots of info came up.

I understand it's used by glass blowers (and mirror makers?). That's where I got the original crazy idea.
I bought stannous chloride and successfully iridized a small piece of float glass in my kiln. I was experimenting with its effect on some copper stain. I was able to repair my kiln shelf with sandpaper and a little elbow grease. I don't think any greater damage occurred to my studio or family.
Brad Walker
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Brad Walker »

I wrote about using stannous chloride in the first printing of my book, Contemporary Warm Glass. Used it numerous times to iridize glass in the kiln, but took the directions out of later printings because it got harder and harder to locate due to hazardous chemical regulations.
Terry Gallentine
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Terry Gallentine »

Brad--Did the stannous chloride have any detrimental effect on the elements or kiln furniture?
Brad Walker
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Brad Walker »

Terry Gallentine wrote:Brad--Did the stannous chloride have any detrimental effect on the elements or kiln furniture?
If it did I didn't notice it. But I used my kiln outside and ventilated a lot once the spray was applied. I know potters who use it on a regular basis.
Ed Cantarella
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Ed Cantarella »

I have some but was waiting for warm weather so I could push a kiln outdoors. IDK, seems it isn;t hideously dangerous to your health, in the small amounts being used, other than the lung irritation. https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/ ... @DOCNO+582 But why take chances. :shock:
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Brad Walker
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Re: HOMEMADE IRIDIZING?

Post by Brad Walker »

I wore a respirator and gloves, with the kiln outdoors.
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