Drinking glasses and bottles are made on ribbon machines that will spit them out one per second. Hot glass can move that fast and you want to control melt it in a teeny kiln?
On older warmglass websites before the crashes, there was a members gallery and in those photos was a fantastic glass box assembled and fused without the puddle effect.
Your best bet would be glues and not the kiln. I suggest Lepages 100% Glue in a small red bottle for your experiments. After some success you could graduate to fancier more expensive glues.
Why you copy web pages onto you computer is below. Unfortunately the link below is dead as is my ability to post the photo from my saved document. You will have to message me for the image.http://mrcol.freeyellow.com/fused-black ... essel.html
22 Oct 02 - 22 Jun 04
Dr. Ron Coleman RIP made the box and posted way back when this page.
THE ANATOMY OF A FUSED GLASS VESSEL
FUSED VESSEL WITH COPPER GRIP
4 x 4 x 6 inches
The vessel pictured above is made from black iridized Bullseye glass. Each panel was made of two layers of glass (black and clear) fused together. Fusing was done on a kiln shelf with Thinfire paper, fusing temperature was 1450 f. The irridized layer was placed face down on the paper.
After fusing, the panels that form the sides and ends of the vessel were cold worked on a grinder to straighten the edges and remove the edge-rounding caused by fusing. All joints have to fit as close as possible for the next fusing operation. Note that the end panels are recessed about 1/4 inch back between the long sides. This was done to eliminate need for grinding perfect outside corners.
With all joints fitting well, the panels were assembled into the vessel shape using Elmers glue and wood blocks to stabilize each piece until the glue set. Only two or three spots of glue were used on each joint. Stringers of black glass were applied along the inside of each joint to act as filler to make up for the slightly rounded edge that remained after grinding. At this point the vessel was VERY fragile but would stand by itself. Two small cleats of glass were added to the bottom of the lid with a little glue. These prevent the lid from sliding off the finished piece.
After assembly the vessel was placed on Thinfire paper on a kiln shelf and an 8 inch diameter by 8 inch tall stainless steel tube was placed around the assembly. Sand was slowly placed around and inside the vessel and the whole thing was buried under about an inch of sand. The lid was placed upside down on flattened sand above the vessel and sand was added to the top of the tube.
Firing rates were 120 min-1000 f, 20 min-1000 f, 60 min-1450 f, 60 min-1450 f, anneal 4 hours @ 960 f, 4 hours to 750 f, kiln off and natural cool to room temperature. Please note this firing was done in a side element ceramics kiln which measures 18 x 18 x 18 inches, with a firing rate of 6000 watts.
After the final fuse firing the vessel was cleaned of any sand (no sand sticks to the iridized surface). The lid had just a small rocking action when placed on the vessel and it was refired at 1200 f to flatten. The grip was fabricated from copper water pipe and silver soldered together. Patina was then applied to the copper. Screws through holes in the lid hold the grip in place.