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As someone who new to the board and glass fusing in general. the term
"float glass" keeps popping up. I went to the archives to try and find out what it is- to no avail. Can somebody give me a definition?

Thanks

Steve

Steve Eshbaugh wrote:As someone who new to the board and glass fusing in general. the term
"float glass" keeps popping up. I went to the archives to try and find out what it is- to no avail. Can somebody give me a definition?

Thanks

Steve

Steve

It is the flat smooth stuff they put in windows. In the archives are various links to sites that explain how the glass is floated on molten tin. It comes in thicknesses from very thin to 1" thick and in various tints. They make a lot of it worldwide so it is accessible and inexpensive, although not always compatible. It is always compatible with itself though.

Today I picked up some 3/8 float.

Any tips on getting the score to run?

The torch is waiting

Btw, the UV light arrived yesterday. I was happily suprised to see just how obvious it is to detect the tin side.

- Paul

Bert: I did start going through the archives but it probably would have taken two weeks to find the links. There are so many threads.

I take it "float glass " is simply a generic term. It could apply to any glass made by the "float" process initially.

Steve

Paul Tarlow wrote:Today I picked up some 3/8 float.

Any tips on getting the score to run?

The torch is waiting

Btw, the UV light arrived yesterday. I was happily suprised to see just how obvious it is to detect the tin side.

- Paul

Paul

You may have to explain better what you want to cut. First of all make sure that you are using a cutter with a 134º angle wheel. Ther Toyo Tap Wheel custom grip is my cutter of choice. Second be sure to use kerosene. Paint the glass with the kero before you score. Press hard enough to make your cutter sing. There is a too hard and a too soft pressure.

For a circle, leave plenty of extra room around the circle. 2" all around is minimum for me. I make a tool with a cheap slotted screw driver. Heat it up red hot and let it cool in the air. Then grind it with a slight rocker (convex). Now you have a tapping tool. after you make the score, flip the glass over and place your tool directly over the score on a place that has plenty of extra glass and is not the spot where you began and ended the score. hit it with the hammer just hard enough to begin the run. Now place the tool at the edge of the run or just beyond there and hit again. Now follow around until the run goes around 360º. Now use the torch to complete the run through the thickness of the glass.

For a straight cut you can simply put a peg directly under the end of your score and push on both sides of the glass. If scored right, it will run straight to the end. I like the Toyo Heavy glass pliers from CRL as my tool of choice for running a score. The only catch is that you have to buy a cutter you don't need as they only come in a kit.