I've been researching vinyl cutters lately, and was wondering if anybody has any advice or preferences. I was checking out the Roland Stika in particular. Does anybody have it, and if so, what do you think? I'd be using it for designs on dichroic jewelry.
Thanks for any help,
Peggy
vinyl cutters
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
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Larry Lunsford
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2003 4:26 pm
- Location: Littleton, CO
- Contact:
I recently bought a vinyl cutter. I too was looking at cutters by Roland. I settled on the Lynx 24. Got it from Sign Warehouse (http://www.signwarehouse.com/).
Besides handling larger vinyl, the Lynx 24 and the larger Roland machines are faster than the little Roland and can handle thicker material. So far, I haven't used anything thicker than 2-3 mil (.002" - .003"). I can spit out a large batch of masks for earrings, etc. in just a few minutes (not that I couldn't just as easily use the slower machine and just go to lunch while it cuts away).
I was also consdiering one of the photo resist systems. Vinyl can make fairly intricate patterns, but not nearly as fine as the photo resist method. On the other hand, photo resist costs around $10 per square foot - vinyl is less than $.50 per square foot.
The light sign vinyl has been fine for all the blasting I've done so far. I use 120 grit AlO2 in a pressure pot with a blast cabinet. For removing dichroic or irid coatings, I run at about 25PSI - takes the coating off very nicely and quickly. I can carve about 1/16" deep using the thin vinyl running the blaster at 50PSI. I could probably go deeper if I ran less pressure and took more time. At 50PSI the thin vinyl mask starts to wear out by the time I've cut 1/16" into the glass.
You should consder the software that comes with the cutter. I've been using AutoCAD to create my drawings and the Lynx software has been able to handle these files with no problems.
Larry
Besides handling larger vinyl, the Lynx 24 and the larger Roland machines are faster than the little Roland and can handle thicker material. So far, I haven't used anything thicker than 2-3 mil (.002" - .003"). I can spit out a large batch of masks for earrings, etc. in just a few minutes (not that I couldn't just as easily use the slower machine and just go to lunch while it cuts away).
I was also consdiering one of the photo resist systems. Vinyl can make fairly intricate patterns, but not nearly as fine as the photo resist method. On the other hand, photo resist costs around $10 per square foot - vinyl is less than $.50 per square foot.
The light sign vinyl has been fine for all the blasting I've done so far. I use 120 grit AlO2 in a pressure pot with a blast cabinet. For removing dichroic or irid coatings, I run at about 25PSI - takes the coating off very nicely and quickly. I can carve about 1/16" deep using the thin vinyl running the blaster at 50PSI. I could probably go deeper if I ran less pressure and took more time. At 50PSI the thin vinyl mask starts to wear out by the time I've cut 1/16" into the glass.
You should consder the software that comes with the cutter. I've been using AutoCAD to create my drawings and the Lynx software has been able to handle these files with no problems.
Larry
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Tony Smith
- Posts: 1037
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:59 pm
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
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I also bought a 24" plotter from sign warehouse. They have excellent support and the software that comes with the plotter package works well. I can use either the sign software or Adobe Illustrator to create my plots. I typically use the Oracal 640 vinyl that they sell as it is their lowest grade of vinyl and has the least amount of stick to it (as compared to the other vinyls which take a heat gun to remove). I've also cut the Hartco 25 mil vinyl with the plotter... it's no problem once you have the knife properly set (along with speed, offset and pressure). You just can't do as fine a detail in the thicker vinyl.
I never tried the Sticka, but you could ask for a sample on a couple of different grades of vinyl from Sign Warehouse. That should give you a feel for what it can or cannot do.
Tony
I never tried the Sticka, but you could ask for a sample on a couple of different grades of vinyl from Sign Warehouse. That should give you a feel for what it can or cannot do.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
vinyl cutters
Thanks for the advice, guys. Larry, I sent you a message about this last week sometime 'cause I heard you'd bought a cutter.
The Lynx 24 sounds great...only problem is, $$$. I live in Canada, and once I pay the exchange, duty, and shipping, it costs a whole lot more. I guess I could handle going for lunch while the lower-cost Roland does its thing. I already have to wait for the kiln to cool, so what the hell!
Another question: can you use hand-drawn artwork rather than computer-generated? My computer's so old, I have doubts about its ability to handle any software.
Thanks again,
Peggy
The Lynx 24 sounds great...only problem is, $$$. I live in Canada, and once I pay the exchange, duty, and shipping, it costs a whole lot more. I guess I could handle going for lunch while the lower-cost Roland does its thing. I already have to wait for the kiln to cool, so what the hell!
Another question: can you use hand-drawn artwork rather than computer-generated? My computer's so old, I have doubts about its ability to handle any software.
Thanks again,
Peggy
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Larry Lunsford
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2003 4:26 pm
- Location: Littleton, CO
- Contact:
You'll need a vector file before you can do any cutting. A vector file consists of a bunch of line segments, each of which corresponds to a cut to be made on the vinyl. A square would just be 4 lines. Things like circles and letters become many small lines.
The software that comes with the plotter will let you put letters and shapes in your design and it handles converting to all the little vectors.
A lot of paint type programs do not support vector formats. Bitmaps, JPEGs, GIFFs, and the like (stuff like all the photos posted on the board) will not work. Some of the plotters will include software that can figure out how to cut around the shapes in a bitmap type image. These programs work best with high contrast images (like a scan of a black and white drawing). Some drawing programs can create a variety of files that include vector formats.
If you have a local cutter dealer, they should be able to let your try out their software and do some test cutting.
Larry
The software that comes with the plotter will let you put letters and shapes in your design and it handles converting to all the little vectors.
A lot of paint type programs do not support vector formats. Bitmaps, JPEGs, GIFFs, and the like (stuff like all the photos posted on the board) will not work. Some of the plotters will include software that can figure out how to cut around the shapes in a bitmap type image. These programs work best with high contrast images (like a scan of a black and white drawing). Some drawing programs can create a variety of files that include vector formats.
If you have a local cutter dealer, they should be able to let your try out their software and do some test cutting.
Larry
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microdichro
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 6:46 am
I recently bought a Roland Stika SX8 - the smallest, cheapest one of the range. I'm very happy with it. It cuts pretty fine and intricate designs which I then etch into dichroic glass with etching cream. I've only been using it for about 3 weeks and so far so good.
It comes with software which you can use to design stuff in vector graphics but if you have a jpeg image, what you can do is save it in bitmap format and then import it into the software which automatically converts it to vectors.
It comes with software which you can use to design stuff in vector graphics but if you have a jpeg image, what you can do is save it in bitmap format and then import it into the software which automatically converts it to vectors.
Peggy,
go to http://www.corbingraphics.com They're in Edmonton, AB PHONE 780.439.3344
Look at their "Raven" It's a 24" $1000 USD
Chuck of AZ
go to http://www.corbingraphics.com They're in Edmonton, AB PHONE 780.439.3344
Look at their "Raven" It's a 24" $1000 USD
Chuck of AZ
It appears to be the size font the different cutters can achieve.lauren wrote:doing a little research on vinyl cutters...what does this mean?
Minimum Cut Sans Serif Character Height
with .125" in really expensive cutters to .5" in the cheaper models...does that indicate how much space needs to be between cuts? size of the font? i don't get it...
thanks
1/8" in the expensive one vs. 1/2" for the cheaper models. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
lauren
Evaluate vinyl cutters with caution. The machine may be capable of driving the blade through the exact motion of cutting a 1/8" high character but you may not get that result in vinyl. There are other variables - the type and quality of vinyl, the speed at which you run the blade, its pressure and offset, how sharp the blade is, even which alpha-numeric character is being cut. You may not be able to successfully obtain a perfectly formed character (or design part) in vinyl even though the machine has faithfully driven the blade. Once you ask the machine to do very fine work every one of the factors above becomes important.
As the roller/cutter-head combination moves the vinyl through X-Y axes the blade swivels. This causes a side pressure on the vinyl which will sometimes cause part of the vinyl to release from the backing paper and spoil the design. If the claim is a 1/8" high character think of cutting a 1/8" high letter O. Retaining the centre of the O will test any machine/adjustment/vinyl combination to the limit.
Ask for demonstrations of a machine's capability. Even then it may only work to that level under perfect conditions not typical everyday. Exaggerated claims of vinyl cutters' performance are common.
Another thing to check is is the quality of the software that drives the machine. Make sure it will do what you want. Good software can be expensive.
Nevertheless vinyl cutters can be great machines. There's some more info in my post under "cheapy silk screening"
R*
Evaluate vinyl cutters with caution. The machine may be capable of driving the blade through the exact motion of cutting a 1/8" high character but you may not get that result in vinyl. There are other variables - the type and quality of vinyl, the speed at which you run the blade, its pressure and offset, how sharp the blade is, even which alpha-numeric character is being cut. You may not be able to successfully obtain a perfectly formed character (or design part) in vinyl even though the machine has faithfully driven the blade. Once you ask the machine to do very fine work every one of the factors above becomes important.
As the roller/cutter-head combination moves the vinyl through X-Y axes the blade swivels. This causes a side pressure on the vinyl which will sometimes cause part of the vinyl to release from the backing paper and spoil the design. If the claim is a 1/8" high character think of cutting a 1/8" high letter O. Retaining the centre of the O will test any machine/adjustment/vinyl combination to the limit.
Ask for demonstrations of a machine's capability. Even then it may only work to that level under perfect conditions not typical everyday. Exaggerated claims of vinyl cutters' performance are common.
Another thing to check is is the quality of the software that drives the machine. Make sure it will do what you want. Good software can be expensive.
Nevertheless vinyl cutters can be great machines. There's some more info in my post under "cheapy silk screening"
R*
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Larry Lunsford
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2003 4:26 pm
- Location: Littleton, CO
- Contact:
Lauren:
The magless, pendants and earrings on my site are pieces I've done using vinyl masks to sandblast dichroic glass.
http://home.netcom.com/~larry_l/stained_glass.htm
The patterns you can create are limited only by your imagination.
Larry
The magless, pendants and earrings on my site are pieces I've done using vinyl masks to sandblast dichroic glass.
http://home.netcom.com/~larry_l/stained_glass.htm
The patterns you can create are limited only by your imagination.
Larry
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Al McCullar
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 6:07 pm
- Location: McDonough, GA.
I purchased a Roland CAMM-1 CX-12 with the Elite software package over 3 years ago from Art on Glass Designs, I have used it continuously and constantly since then ( I do a lot of etching and carving ) on vinyl up to 8 mils, and except for routine maintenance have not had a bit of trouble with it. And some of the things I etch have letters as small as 1/8". Support from Roland is a little weak, but rarely have I had any needs for it.