floral former question - WarmGlass.com

floral former question

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carol nahoom
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Location: Crawfordville, Florida

floral former question

Postby carol nahoom » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:41 am

I am still making the floral former lights. On the more traditional floral former it is too small to put the necessary hardware and bulb inside. Unless there is a bulb I am unaware of it seems the heat would get way too hot. I bought a SS mold (restaurant supply) with a 4" bottom and 7" sides. Much better as far as heat build up I think. On the pieces I have already made, they basically drop the same each time. Each one has four drapes where they come together on the corners. My question.....can i slump them eliminating the four corners to a drop that more ruffles around the bottom? A longer soak at lower temps?

thanks
carol

Tony Serviente
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Postby Tony Serviente » Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:42 am

Carol-If you drape a circle you should get the effect you want.

carol nahoom
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Location: Crawfordville, Florida

Postby carol nahoom » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:51 pm

I am using a 16" circle. When the circle starts to drop, two sides opposite each other drop first. Then after a short time, the other two sides drop. Every time I get four folds at the corners. Is it possible for the entire piece to drop at the same time? Wouldn't that create more of a ruffled bottom (or top) versus the larger folded corners? I am trying to achieve softer folds all the way around and not forming 4 corners. Any ideas?

thanks
carol

Brock
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Postby Brock » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:53 pm

carol nahoom wrote:I am using a 16" circle. When the circle starts to drop, two sides opposite each other drop first. Then after a short time, the other two sides drop. Every time I get four folds at the corners. Is it possible for the entire piece to drop at the same time? Wouldn't that create more of a ruffled bottom (or top) versus the larger folded corners? I am trying to achieve softer folds all the way around and not forming 4 corners. Any ideas?

thanks
carol


Put concentric ring elements in the ceiling of your kiln. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .

travisraybold
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Postby travisraybold » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:59 pm

i havent tried it yet, but i was thinking of cutting two triangles and overlapping them to form a hexagon on the former, hoping to get 6 points instead of four. if that works, i was thinking of trying a series of isoceles but not equilateral triangles to get even more points, but still have them extending enough that their weight drops them all down evenly.

--travis

Lynn g
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Postby Lynn g » Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:50 pm

Travis, if you try this, be careful to anneal properly. A friend did a beautiful vase with 2 squares rotated to make 8 points...it looked great until the annealing stress set in, and now it is a pierced vase! She didn't allow for the portion that was double thickness.
Lynn g
"Patriotism is not enough, I must have no hatred or bitterness towards anyone." - Dame Edith Cavell

travisraybold
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Postby travisraybold » Tue Mar 23, 2004 1:16 am

i've actually changed tack a bit. im fusing up six small circles of double thickness in my little kiln, as soon as they are ready i'm going to tack fuse them to a larger circle, spaced evenly around the edge of the circle. i'm hoping that the evenly spaced extra weight will disrupt the natural tendency to fold into fours and give me 6 folds. and yes, with the varied thickness, i will be careful to anneal it well.

i'll report back when it's done... if it works i might try do it with the circle being double thickness all the way around the outer rim. if not, perhaps supporting evenly spaced segments with wire, slump halfway, then remove the wire supports and slump the rest of the way.

--travis

carol nahoom
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Location: Crawfordville, Florida

Postby carol nahoom » Tue Mar 23, 2004 7:43 am

i have concentric ring elements in the top of my kiln but have been turning them off to do the vases. My kiln is 9" deep so the glass is very close to the top - about an inch or so. I also have to take the shelf out when I fired the vases. My top elements have a 1-10 switch. Would it work if I put it on a very low number? I thought that I should turn off the top because the glass is so close to the top.

Tony Serviente
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Postby Tony Serviente » Tue Mar 23, 2004 12:14 pm

I should have elaborated. If you start with a circle, and have a form with a sufficiently wide base and relatively short height it will be less likely to give you the large deep folds, but more the multiple little folds. Something like an inverted ice bucket would be worth a try. Sounds like you are trying for the effect that blowers get when they make a handkerchief vase. I don't think adding circles to the rim will help, but will be interesting to try it. Since you are adding weight where it takes the most advantage of leverage, lower your slump temps by a few tens of degrees. Good luck.

jolly
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Postby jolly » Tue Mar 23, 2004 1:16 pm

It has been about a year since I've tried this but I seem to remember getting pretty good results by first slumping it over a large bowl. By first slumping it into that shape, the second slump didn't form the typical saddle shape that turned it into four folds. -Jolly
There is more to life than increasing its speed.-Mahatma Gandhi

carol nahoom
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Postby carol nahoom » Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:05 pm

I am trying for the effect blowers get when they make a handerchief vase. I understand what you are saying and appreciate the advise. Thanks!


Carol


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