Kiln Wash can I or can't I ? Do I really have to ??

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Kelly & Charlie MacMu

Kiln Wash can I or can't I ? Do I really have to ??

Post by Kelly & Charlie MacMu »

NEWBIE, NEWBIE, NEWBIE QUESTION -

I swtched from kiln shelf paper to kiln wash, Im getting ready to use my kiln post first firing with the kiln wash. The question is do I have to clean my shelf off after each firing?? You mean soak shelf gently scrub off surface
then let it dry for 24 hours. Please say it isn't so :cry: :cry: :cry: I swear Ill go out and by a dozen kiln shelves if this is true and just alternate them. I learned from the first coat of wash I can apply it turn the kiln on to 350 degrees turn kiln off then when I can touch shelf its about 100 degrees place pieces on and begin process. If I get the shelf completely saturated with H20 what is the trick to get it to dry with NO CHANCES OF STEAM ??? Also what is the best way to clean it off ?
Thanks
Brock
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Re: Kiln Wash can I or can't I ? Do I really have to ??

Post by Brock »

Atticus wrote:NEWBIE, NEWBIE, NEWBIE QUESTION -

I swtched from kiln shelf paper to kiln wash, Im getting ready to use my kiln post first firing with the kiln wash. The question is do I have to clean my shelf off after each firing?? You mean soak shelf gently scrub off surface
then let it dry for 24 hours. Please say it isn't so :cry: :cry: :cry: I swear Ill go out and by a dozen kiln shelves if this is true and just alternate them. I learned from the first coat of wash I can apply it turn the kiln on to 350 degrees turn kiln off then when I can touch shelf its about 100 degrees place pieces on and begin process. If I get the shelf completely saturated with H20 what is the trick to get it to dry with NO CHANCES OF STEAM ??? Also what is the best way to clean it off ?
Thanks
Not necessarily.

You don't have to do that.

Okay, it isn't so.

That's a good idea.

Pre-firing.

Depends. A scraper and fabri-cut works.
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Ron Coleman
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Post by Ron Coleman »

No need to wet the shelf for cleaning. Get a razor blade window scraper and use it to clean off the old wash.


As for when to renew the wash, do a little experimenting. I replace the wash each time I go above about 1400, others will use it several times.

Experiment

Experiment with drying too. I only fire a shelf to 175 f until the damp color is gone from the wash and then it's time to cook glass. Others bake the hell out of the wash. Experiment Experiment. Experiment.
Steve Immerman
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Post by Steve Immerman »

I agree with Ron and Brock. Scrape the kiln wash off with a single edged razor in one of those little holders. Brush off any remaining dust. Recoat (I use 4 layers) and let air dry. If I'm in a hurry I put it in the kiln to 500 degrees and let it cool off quickly in the kiln.

I always recoat if I'm going above 1400 also.

Steve
Kelly & Charlie MacMu

Post by Kelly & Charlie MacMu »

TAHNKS Im going out to buy a sraight edge. Everyone is soooo helpful I really appreciate it :lol:
Amy on Salt Spring
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Post by Amy on Salt Spring »

Maybe its just me but I find different glasses also determine whether I recoat. Cathedrals have less problems with kiln wash sticking than opals--if I am using opals I scrape and recoat more often. Black especially seems to want to have kiln wash stick to it. I refire on one coating a number of times but do take into consideration variables like the above to determine when it is time to scrape and recoat.
Amy
DonMcClennen
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Post by DonMcClennen »

I scrape off old kiln wash with the edge of a scrap of glass. Takes about 2 minutes. Always dry, no water involved.
"The Glassman"
Carla Fox
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Post by Carla Fox »

You do know to wear a respirator during the scraping (ie dusty) stage don't you?

Carla, who doesn't always think of these things
Kelly & Charlie MacMu

Post by Kelly & Charlie MacMu »

Respirator ???? No I didn't know ??? Can I just buy one at a glass store?? Can I buy new lungs there too??? Im gonna need a ventilator and endotracheal tube if I keep sucking this crap in :cry:
Carla Fox
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Post by Carla Fox »

I don't have the technical info, but yes, this stuff is bad for lungs. Hopefully, someone with more info then me will fill in the blanks.

You can also go to: http://www.gregorieglass.com/HS_menu.htm

This wonderful person has written up a whole bunch of info on safety and warm glass. He's a saint in my mind. =D>

Carla
Brock
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Post by Brock »

CM Fox wrote:I don't have the technical info, but yes, this stuff is bad for lungs. Hopefully, someone with more info then me will fill in the blanks.

You can also go to: http://www.gregorieglass.com/HS_menu.htm

This wonderful person has written up a whole bunch of info on safety and warm glass. He's a saint in my mind. =D>

Carla
So Greg, are you casting your doleful eyes heavenward?

I think Greg said that kiln wash is nuisance dust, but respirators are still a good idea.

Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Kelly & Charlie MacMu

Post by Kelly & Charlie MacMu »

Steve replied that he uses 4 coats if he is going above 1400. (Here comes the dumb question ) So can I put another coat which would make it 2 coats ( one used already ) and fire ??? Is this trial and error/ experiment ???
Brock
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Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Post by Brock »

Atticus wrote:Steve replied that he uses 4 coats if he is going above 1400. (Here comes the dumb question ) So can I put another coat which would make it 2 coats ( one used already ) and fire ??? Is this trial and error/ experiment ???
If the existing kiln wash from the previous firing is still okay, just go ahead and use the shelf again, as is. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
elizglass
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Post by elizglass »

I guess Brock Knows best... but since i just switched to using Bullseye's pink kiln wash, maybe there is a diff. depending on the brand you use? BU says to paint the wash on in various directions (making it about 5 coats-across, up and down, diagonally, etc) then take full speed up to 500 degrees and hold for 20 minutes.
They also say you can re-use the shelf mucho times if you are firing below 1400- but to re-apply (scrape and paint) after full fusing.
I use a 5" putty blade to scrape, then hardware cloth. It IS a nuisance, but the fiber paper is so toxic...(tho I have a roll I've been using since '98 and still keeps going!!!)
Hope this helps!
Liz
Amy on Salt Spring
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Post by Amy on Salt Spring »

I use the same BE kilnwash. I find that with all things its a matter of trial and error and what works best for you. I use three coats of it prepared as stated, painted in three different directions, fired to 500 for 10 minutes. I will refire on a wash that has gone to 1450 several times (that's as high as I ever go). I've come to be able to judge whether the kilnwash is still viable or not by experience...until you have that experience with your kiln err on the conservative side
-A
Last edited by Amy on Salt Spring on Tue Mar 30, 2004 5:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brock
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Post by Brock »

I guess Brock Knows best...

You will go far Grasshopper, with your brilliant intuitive sense.

but since i just switched to using Bullseye's pink kiln wash, maybe there is a diff. depending on the brand you use? BU says to paint the wash on in various directions (making it about 5 coats-across, up and down, diagonally, etc) then take full speed up to 500 degrees and hold for 20 minutes.

There's a million ways to prep, apply, and fire these products. I use MANY coats, 10-14, something like that. Then I pre-fire to 1450. Then I get multiple firings out of a shelf.

They also say you can re-use the shelf mucho times if you are firing below 1400- but to re-apply (scrape and paint) after full fusing.

If the shelf isn't showing obvious signs of wear, you can just use it again.

I use a 5" putty blade to scrape, then hardware cloth. It IS a nuisance, but the fiber paper is so toxic...(tho I have a roll I've been using since '98 and still keeps going!!!)
Hope this helps!
Liz[/quote]
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Dani
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Post by Dani »

Steve Immerman wrote:I agree with Ron and Brock. Scrape the kiln wash off with a single edged razor in one of those little holders. Brush off any remaining dust. Recoat (I use 4 layers) and let air dry. If I'm in a hurry I put it in the kiln to 500 degrees and let it cool off quickly in the kiln.

I always recoat if I'm going above 1400 also.

Steve
Wow, I fire up to 1450 and get dozens of firings without re-doing the shelves. I often use a light sprinkling of whiting, but don't notice any degradation of the kilnwash itself. Also have paint firings at lower temps in between. Curious. I use BE. Hmmm. Someone should test a shelf to see just how many firings they get off one kilnwashing at what temps. Tony, where are you??
Brock
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Post by Brock »

Dani wrote:
Steve Immerman wrote:I agree with Ron and Brock. Scrape the kiln wash off with a single edged razor in one of those little holders. Brush off any remaining dust. Recoat (I use 4 layers) and let air dry. If I'm in a hurry I put it in the kiln to 500 degrees and let it cool off quickly in the kiln.

I always recoat if I'm going above 1400 also.

Steve
Wow, I fire up to 1450 and get dozens of firings without re-doing the shelves. I often use a light sprinkling of whiting, but don't notice any degradation of the kilnwash itself. Also have paint firings at lower temps in between. Curious. I use BE. Hmmm. Someone should test a shelf to see just how many firings they get off one kilnwashing at what temps. Tony, where are you??
Yeah!

That might be valuable if we were all using the same kilns, shelves, kiln wash, firing schedules, glass, and so on . . .

Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Cynthia

Post by Cynthia »

Best kiln wash removal method I've ever seen, but don't care to repeat.

My shelf was propped up against the garage wall while I got my scraper and was replacing the blade. Kilroy, the neigbors dog who is allowed to roam (nice guy, no trouble, but he's gonna get killed one-a-these-days), needed to let me know he'd been here...so he peed on my shelf.

Pee seems to work like Wash Away. Where he peed, the primer just rinsed right off with the hose. Where he didn't pee, it stayed stuck.

Now, who wants to do the testing to see if my anecdotal experience can live up to some emperical muster?
Linda Hassur
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Post by Linda Hassur »

I always use a spray bottle with plain water to spray down the shelf. Then use a wide putty knife to scrape off the old kiln wash. This eliminates the need for a respirator as there's no dust this way. Linda
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