Eternal Tile Saws - WarmGlass.com

Eternal Tile Saws

This is the main board for discussing general techniques, tools, and processes for fusing, slumping, and related kiln-forming activities.

Moderators: Tony Smith, Brad Walker

Post Reply
Ralph
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2003 8:12 pm
Location: Australia

Eternal Tile Saws

Postby Ralph » Wed Mar 31, 2004 9:51 pm

I'd like to follow up a question asked by Paul T. (bottom, page 1 of this post - http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3413&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=tile&start=0)

Are there opinions on the moving-motor saw offering more, or less, than the moving-table style? In Aus. the moving-table style is often sold as a brick saw - with more table side movement than desirable with glass.

I've used a moving-motor saw (Chinese origin, similar to the QEP) for a couple months - OK within it's design and build quality limitations (blade does not raise or lower, and it has a poor arbor - true mounting a blade is a nightmare).

I'm looking at a larger, higher quality version - the blade raises and lowers.

One advantage with the moving-motor type is you can quickly change the vertical blade angle for cutting complex bars (Shin-Ichi Higuchi's work for example). This minimizes - or eliminates - special jigs to hold the glass. Also the rails/linear bearings (and your hands as if that matters!) are not always in the grit-water. The moving-motor type also handles bigger glass.

Has anyone found that back-side edge chipping can be caused by inaccurate movement of the table?

I understand Ron's comment (page 2) that maybe you can feel the feed rate better with your fingers on the glass/table.

Any more thoughts or experience?

Ralph

Brock
Posts: 1519
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:32 pm
Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Re: Eternal Tile Saws

Postby Brock » Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:04 pm

I think I have the saw you're referring to. The main problem I've found with all these saws, is the ridiculously under-engineered, aluminum fence. These fences are locked in place with a set screw. The screw quickly makes depressions in the stop, making it difficult to make fine adjustments. I have gone to an acrylic fence, clamped from the edge of the table. I gave up on making the blade perpendicular to the table, I just square the acrylic fence to the blade.

Randy Wesner posted some great instructions on squaring the blade, you could find them in the archive. Brock
Last edited by Brock on Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .

dee
Posts: 302
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:20 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Re: Eternal Tile Saws

Postby dee » Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:37 am

Brock wrote:I think I have the saw you're referring to. The main problem I've found with all these saws, is the ridiculously under-engineered, aluminum fence. These fences are locked in place with a set screw. The screw quickly makes depressions in the stop, making it difficult to make fine adjustments. I have gone to an acrylic fence, clamped from the edge of the table. I gave up on making the blade perpendicular to the table, I just square the acrylic fence to the blade.

Randy Wesneer posted some great instructions on asuaring the blade, you could find them in the archive. Brock


brock, how do you deal with the strain on one's shoulders that you get from pushing the glass thru the saw or does your model have the blade much closer to the front? the biggest problem i have with the mk diamond is i get alot of muscle strain from the distance of the saw to the front of the tool....

also, the acrylic fence you mention, did you make that or did you find it somewhere?
D
Dee Janssen
Unicorn's Creations Studio
http://ucjewelry.com
dee@ucjewelry.com

Brock
Posts: 1519
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:32 pm
Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Re: Eternal Tile Saws

Postby Brock » Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:56 am

dee wrote:
Brock wrote:I think I have the saw you're referring to. The main problem I've found with all these saws, is the ridiculously under-engineered, aluminum fence. These fences are locked in place with a set screw. The screw quickly makes depressions in the stop, making it difficult to make fine adjustments. I have gone to an acrylic fence, clamped from the edge of the table. I gave up on making the blade perpendicular to the table, I just square the acrylic fence to the blade.

Randy Wesner posted some great instructions on asuaring the blade, you could find them in the archive. Brock




brock, how do you deal with the strain on one's shoulders that you get from pushing the glass thru the saw or does your model have the blade much closer to the front? the biggest problem i have with the mk diamond is i get alot of muscle strain from the distance of the saw to the front of the tool....

also, the acrylic fence you mention, did you make that or did you find it somewhere?
D


My blade, (and motor) is at the back of the saw also. I just lean forward and push it through. I can't visualize the assembly at the moment, but you might be able to move the saw forward.

The acrylic fence is just an (approx.) 4" by 11", 1/4" thick piece, I bummed off the prop maker downstairs., By using two locking clamps, I can set any increment I like, and hold it firmly in place.

The aluminum fence that comes with the saw is hopeless. Apart from indenting the stop with the set screw, making it difficult to set distances close to your normal setting, because it is held in place by only that one set screw, it is easy to push the fence out of square while cutting. The acrylic, (or any other material mounted from the edge) is far superior as a fence.

Has anyone else come up with another method?

Jackie, Phil, Steve, Doug?

Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .

dee
Posts: 302
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:20 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Re: Eternal Tile Saws

Postby dee » Thu Apr 01, 2004 12:00 pm

My blade, (and motor) is at the back of the saw also. I just lean forward and push it through. I can't visualize the assembly at the moment, but you might be able to move the saw forward.

The acrylic fence is just an (approx.) 4" by 11", 1/4" thick piece, I bummed off the prop maker downstairs., By using two locking clamps, I can set any increment I like, and hold it firmly in place.

The aluminum fence that comes with the saw is hopeless. Apart from indenting the stop with the set screw, making it difficult to set distances close to your normal setting, because it is held in place by only that one set screw, it is easy to push the fence out of square while cutting. The acrylic, (or any other material mounted from the edge) is far superior as a fence.

Has anyone else come up with another method?

Jackie, Phil, Steve, Doug?

Brock


yeah, i've noticed that sometimes i'm not getting true cuts and the other week i was cutting some fired sheets into squares, didn't move the guide at all from when i cut strips off the sheets and cut the strips into pieces and should have had a nice uniform square that i could fire as a diamond or a square, depending on where i put my nichrome wire and yet i had an entire batch that are slightly rectangular :( locking clamps - is this a specific type of clamp that if i go to home depot and ask they will know what i'm talking about? i'm not mechanically inclined ;P i will get some acrylic before the next time i cut again....

i know on my saw i can't move the saw part forward, i think i might have seen one on the mk diamond site that mentioned having the ability to move the saw head horizontally, not just rotate it to make angle cuts....

thanks brock
D
Dee Janssen
Unicorn's Creations Studio
http://ucjewelry.com
dee@ucjewelry.com

Brock
Posts: 1519
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 1:32 pm
Location: Vancouver, B.C.

Postby Brock » Thu Apr 01, 2004 12:07 pm

locking clamps - is this a specific type of clamp that if i go to home depot and ask they will know what i'm talking about? i'm not mechanically inclined ;P i will get some acrylic before the next time i cut again....

Anything will do, there are some that just have a powerful spring, and there are others that have a squeeze/ratchet type of dealy. Doesn't matter, anything that will hold the acrylic in place is fine. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .

dee
Posts: 302
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:20 pm
Location: Atlanta GA
Contact:

Postby dee » Thu Apr 01, 2004 12:22 pm

Brock wrote:locking clamps - is this a specific type of clamp that if i go to home depot and ask they will know what i'm talking about? i'm not mechanically inclined ;P i will get some acrylic before the next time i cut again....

Anything will do, there are some that just have a powerful spring, and there are others that have a squeeze/ratchet type of dealy. Doesn't matter, anything that will hold the acrylic in place is fine. Brock


ok, thanks, will definitely be getting some of these clamps ;)
D
Dee Janssen
Unicorn's Creations Studio
http://ucjewelry.com
dee@ucjewelry.com

Ralph
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2003 8:12 pm
Location: Australia

Postby Ralph » Thu Apr 01, 2004 8:40 pm

Thanks so far Brock and Dee...your experiences support buying quality in the first place.

I'm primarily interested in moving-motor against moving-table. Guess most everyone has the moving-table type. I'm looking at the Felker FRS Tile, Marble and Granite Rail Saw - about half down this page:

http://www.felkertilesaws.com/tile_saws1.html#frs

R


Post Reply

Return to “Techniques and Tools”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 53 guests

Warm Glass

2575 Old Glory Road, Suite 700
Suite 700
Clemmons, NC 27012
Phone: (336) 712 8003
Email: wg@warmglass.com