how do I finish dichro cab with a channel - WarmGlass.com

how do I finish dichro cab with a channel

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Barbara Silverberg
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio

how do I finish dichro cab with a channel

Postby Barbara Silverberg » Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:17 pm

I made several dichroic cabs/stones using a kiln-wash coated rod for a chain. A few need to be grinded to be more even, then fire-polished. My question is, what about the rod? Do I try to keep it in when using the grinder? If so, when I fire-polish, is the rod still supposed to be left in place? Or, should the rod be removed when moving on to the finishing phase? In the past I used strips of fiber blanket and just put a fresh piece in when fire-polishing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Barbara in Cleveland

Susan Moore
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Postby Susan Moore » Mon Apr 12, 2004 5:21 pm

Barbara,

If the rod is being used to make a channel to later insert a chain:

When fire polishing - yes you need to keep the rod or fiber paper in place. For grinding - no you don't need to keep it in place.

Susan

Barbara Silverberg
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Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 12:17 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Postby Barbara Silverberg » Mon Apr 12, 2004 6:07 pm

So to make sure I understand, I will need to:

keep rod in during grinding so that it will be able to remain in for the later fire-polishing.

Therefore, rod and the kiln-wash coating wil more than likely get wet during the grinding (mine is an Inland grinder). So I will then need to make sure everyting it totally dry before the fire-polishing stage. I hope I got it right.

Thank you, Barbara in Cleveland

Geri Comstock
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Postby Geri Comstock » Mon Apr 12, 2004 6:30 pm

You don't need to keep the rod in place while grinding. This is kind of dangerous to do, actually, should the rod get caught on something and end up going flying across the room.

Once you grind, make sure you wash the bead and especially the hole where the rod (mandrel) was, to remove all the grit and grinder water.

Make sure it still has release on it and reinsert it before you fire-polish. I've done this many times and it works.

Geri

charlie
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Postby charlie » Mon Apr 12, 2004 6:46 pm

also, grinding metal with a diamond grinder head is a pretty fast way to ruin the head.

Barbara Silverberg
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Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 12:17 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

Postby Barbara Silverberg » Mon Apr 12, 2004 8:25 pm

Many thanks to all of you . Now I understand. I was very confused about that darn rod........ Barbara in Cleveland

lohman
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Postby lohman » Mon Apr 12, 2004 11:20 pm

A couple of folks told you you need to keep the rod in place for fire polishing. I always fire polish without anything in the channel. I fire polish at 1300 F and my channels stay open. Try it. It will save some time.

Joanne Owsley
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Postby Joanne Owsley » Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:39 am

[quote="lohman"]A couple of folks told you you need to keep the rod in place for fire polishing. I always fire polish without anything in the channel. I fire polish at 1300 F and my channels stay open. Try it. It will save some time.[/quote]

Me, too. I fire polish without anything to keep the hole open and have no problems.
~ Joanne

"What neglected medication made you think THAT was a good idea??"
- me, to myself

GlassOrchid
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Postby GlassOrchid » Tue Apr 13, 2004 10:48 pm

I don't keep the rod in for grinding or fire polishing. Here's what I have done for years:

Remove the rod
Grind to shape desired
Clean the hole with bead reamer and water
Dry
Fire polish - you have to work your schedule so that you do not close the hole. It all depends on the size of the channel and thickness of glass... obviously you would fire less for a very narrow channel. Better to fire less and then fire again until you get your schedule worked out..... you can always add more salt to the soup but you can't take it out.... i.e. you can fire again if it ain't shiney but you can do NOTHING if the hole is closed....

Also, if it has a channel it isn't a cab.... it's a pendant or bead.... <smile>...

Luck,
Nancy


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