flat lap grinder

[aaa8]

i'm looking to purchase a flat lap grinder to work on piecesa about 12x12 or 15x15. any recommendations on brand?
any experience with the inland 8 in lap grinder? It's about $450. I figure I can still work on the larger pieces on it, but that it would just take more time becuase it would require longer passes over the pad. is that wrong? I'm just not sure I'm ready to drop $2000 on a fancy crystalmaster pro lap. Anything in the middle? I don't want to be too cheap and get crappy tools, but I also don't want to break the bank on a lap grinder. Thanks for your help!

The specs on the Inland are below:

Includes motor unit and base
Splashguard
Water drip system
Four 8" diamond laps
Polishing pad and compound
Two master laps and arbor
Addtional tools
Instruction guide
Two Year Full Confidence Warranty

[Stereoette]

I've never gotten the feeling that the Inland swap top (which is what I assume you're referencing) would last very long with regular use. I've seen this one in person and it looks a lot sturdier than the Inland, though costs a few hundred more:

http://www.pacificartglass.com/index.ph ... cat_id=414

There's also this 8" mini grinder, which I've not seen used, but is more in line with the price for the Inland: http://www.hisglassworks.com/cart/8_Inc ... _p119.html Reviews suggest that it may not be great for larger pieces (which i'd assume would be true for any small lap grinder)

[Brock]

I don't think you want to try to grind pieces bigger than your lap. Asking for trouble . . .

[JestersBaubles]

I don't think you want to try to grind pieces bigger than your lap. Asking for trouble . . .

It's difficult, if not darned near impossible, not to get ridges on the edges if your glass is rectangular or square. Round works just fine .

Dana

[JestersBaubles]

I have the Inland swap top -- bought it cheap off the local classifieds for the saw. It's a toy compared to my Glasstar. I figure it will be an adequate grinder (standard grinder, not lap - edited DAW) if my current one ever dies. It would be ok for lapping cabs, but not larger pieces. Notice that the inland has a center post to mount the disk, which significantly cuts down on your work surface. The glasstar, for instance, is mounted by a strong magnet, so you have the full work surface.) Of course, it's also more expensive.

Dana

[Morganica]

Having the piece fully on the grinder without part of it hanging off in space helps stabilize it and reduce stress on the glass. When you go bigger than the diameter of the disc it gets nearly impossible to keep the glass flat and level without additional equipment, and a moment of inattention where you accidentally push the wrong way on the glass can be all she wrote for the piece. I can go about an inch or so bigger on mine, but it's extra work and the quality isn't as nice at the ends.

Also, there's a big difference between lightly supporting and leveling a piece that's fully on the grinding wheel and doing all that PLUS keeping the glass level off the wheel, so it stresses your body more, too.

Gotta admit, when I buy the less expensive alternative that ALMOST does what I want, I usually wind up scrapping it a few weeks later and buying the real thing. My real concern with the Inland swaptops and such is the motor--push down too hard and you can slow or stop the action. And as Dana points out, the center post would make it even harder to do pieces bigger than 8".

HIS Glassworks has plans for building your own flat lap which can save a little money. You might look there and see what you think.

[S.TImmerman]

I bought my 24 lap fron grindglass.com. John is a great guy to work with. He powder coats the disk to prevent rust and hand builds his laps, if you contact him ask if he has a "used" one. He sells the one he uses for a few months at a bit of a discount. I have an 8 inch lap with two disks that never came out after it was delivered. I bought the disks at his glasswork. Great men as well.
Simmer